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Full Version: 1936 Philco 116B Early Version
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I worked out a deal with a local shop owner on this. I'm doing a repair on a radio for him, and instead of getting paid for parts and labor, it will apply towards purchasing this. He let me bring it home, since he didn't have space in his store, and I have a good working relationship with him.
Here's some pics of the initial inspection. You can see a hole was drilled in the front panel. There is a 1/4" jack in there, installed in the chassis. I assume it is for an aux input, but I haven't tested it yet.
The set does power up and receive stations. Icon_thumbup

[Image: 34841722614_d6fd8398c1_z.jpg]

You can see on the front of the chassis the jack that was added to the lower left of the dial.

[Image: 35513684762_7a5d78b518_z.jpg]

It's a little dusty, but overall in good condition.
[Image: 35643344116_7a6b6451fe_z.jpg]

You can see the notes on the back of the chassis when it has been serviced.

[Image: 35643341116_ecd9bb3746_z.jpg]

And a somewhat crowded underside of the chassis.

[Image: 35643348636_83c7110161_b.jpg]
Since I've worked on several Philcos from around this year, I have pretty good documentation and references for parts values. Icon_thumbup However, the 2-part electrolytic (part 101 on the list, part #30-2045) indicates an 8ufd and 10ufd cap, with 1 at 450v, and the other at 50v. So which is the lower voltage rating? And is it OK to just put a 450v in place Icon_question The original cans have been replaced above the chassis, and some are installed under the chassis as you can hopefully see in the underside chassis pic above.
I'm anxious to work on this, Icon_biggrin so I'm studying up, and wanting to start rounding up parts for it.
If anyone has this info, or any other advice, it would be most welcome. Icon_thumbup
So which is the lower voltage rating? And is it OK to just put a 450v in place [Image: icon_question.gif]

It's the one that's connected from the p/t ct to the chassis. + goes to the chassis
- to the ct. You can use a 450v but it's a bit wasteful. It's filtering the- bias voltage.
I am not familiar with the abbreviations you used. p/t ct Icon_question
Power transformer and center tap (on the high voltage winding).

Also noticed that you have two paper caps that aren't shown on the riders schematic.
These are connected to the speaker socket and are probably .006@1kv. Two .01mf
@630v in series will work fine. Circuit is very similar to the 660. I too have a 116B w/
a hole in it. It's abt 9/16 near the top left corner on the left side of the cabinet. Nothing
in it. Late model set w/8" spkr.
(04-18-2017, 11:27 PM)PhilcoPhan1936 Wrote: [ -> ]I worked out a deal with a local shop owner on this. I'm doing a repair on a radio for him, and instead of getting paid for parts and labor, it will apply towards purchasing this.
This part I have not understood.
If you are the one buying it, it absolutely does no help you to get a better price. If the owner knows you will buy it why not sell it to you now and wait for the repair?
We settled on a price that was agreeable to both of us for the 116, and whatever my labor charges will be, plus cost of parts, on a Goodyear tabletop he wanted fixed, will be deducted from the price of the 116B, and I'll pay any balance in cash. This way, I don't have to put out so much cash, he got it out of his shop, and I have a nice radio that I've wanted for a while. Maybe an odd transaction to some, but agreeable for us this time. Icon_thumbup
Hey Jeff, I have the exact same radio on the bench as I type. First power up was last night and so far it is working well. If you have any questions let me know.

Gregb
Oh...got it, it is another radio.