The PHILCO Phorum

All, Started on this radio.. Noticed a couple of things..

Schematic I have is very hard to read.. Really need a diagram of the underside.. So I know what parts are what.. Anyone have any thing?

Next The tube line up it has a 80,47,47,127,35,551,24,27

the 551 and a 127 are blue in color.. According to schematic that,s not correct??

Anyone worked on this model? maybe can help with underside??

Thanks
Skip..

Pictures to follow..

Thought I would answer here rather than the dog forum (arf).

The globe 127 227 327 and so on is nearly identical to the 27 except the envelope.

The same goes for the 51, 151 and the 39.

Blue glass is a gimic to sell tubes. The color does not matter - except that Crosley used some blue Arcturas tubes, some marked Crosley, in their radios from the factory.

Ok thanks.. I assume then that the 51 and the 35 are interchangeable..

I did find 3 bad tubes The 24A shows a short, the 80 is dead no filament and one of the 47's dead no filament.

I need to know what the underside is supposed to look like.. Looks like some things were changed I think...But NOT SURE

Before I try to tackle it..

Skip...

The closest chassis that I have to the 124 is this Buddy Boy. It may give you an idea of how the parts were laid out.

[attachment=14596]

OK  Here is what mine looks like..

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Skip...

Looks good - a couple of replacement caps. What were your concerns?

Well A couple of things...

There are 3 looks like cans in middle  What are they?

Also bottom left a looks like capacitor can?  Then  on top same position as bottom another square can..

Also there are 2 looks like a coil of wire lower left What are they?

Need to ID on schematic..

Skip...

All, need to know the following info..

Need to match the tube layout with the schematic..







Having a hard time figuring out what matches what...

Thanks
Skip...

Hi Skip,
Not sure I understand your question. Your hand drawing has the tubes in the proper places. Tube #s are listed on the schematic. Going from left to right on the schematic 35/51 rf amp,24 mixer, below it is the 27 local oscilltor, 35/51 IF amp, 27 detector/1st audio, below is the 80 rectifier, and the two 47 p/p output.

OK,, What I mean is.. I know the 80 and the 2 47,s

The next tube next to the 47 What is it on schematic.. is it the 27 up by the 47's on the schematic? or the 27 down near the 80 on schematic.. Same for the 35 tubes the one near the end is it the RF amP or the IF amp?


What I am trying to do is find out what tube on schematic matches what tube on layout...



Skip...

Did you read all of my post? I noted via the schematic what tube does what.

OPs.. Missed it..

Thanks
Skip...

Ok Found another problem I think..


The Volume control .. From end to end rads Open But from Center to either end it reads something Very intermittent.. Also looks like the Center is grounded to the case..

\What is value supposed to be?



Maybe it can be repaired? If so who does repairs?

Skip..

Typically the value is going to be around 10-20K. Yours is wire wound which would indicate that it may be rated at a few watts. Not really see that much current flow just the cathode of the rf  and if amp. Carbon is probably ok.

Skip, that same chassis was used in the Crosley Grandfather clock.  The following site covers how he repaired his volume control (under Repairs and Volume Control & Switch):

http://mcclellans.com/Crosley124PlayTime.htm

He also shows very clear pics of the underside of the chassis farther down the page.

Other than that Mark Oppat would be your best contact for a replacement:

http://www.oldradioparts.net/controls.html

Edit:  Here's a post I found from Mark about the volume control in question:

"King of Controls" here to help. Your set has whats called a "gain control" and it uses a linear, or better, a REVERSE taper pot. Its nearly the OPPOSITE of AUDIO taper ! 5K is correct value for the Crosley 124.


Some have that 250 to 330 ohm "stopper resistor" built in, some add it externally. Most of these controls are in the 3K-15K range. These sets usually suffer the problem of all the gain bunched up at the last bit of rotation before full on (or oscillation occurs). A reverse taper control will help smooth that out.

I have most types in stock, can supply them with most any type of shaft, with or without power switch.

Mark Oppat