I'm going through the chassis on my Model 60, taking inventory of where everything is and what I need to order. I have details of the production changes, and it appears that mine is the last variation of design.
While going through this exercise, a question was going through my mind.... if I was working on an earlier iteration of design, would a proper restoration include changing the chassis to reflect the final design iteration? This assumes that radio performance trumps historical accuracy of the restoration.
I have done cabinets where I decided to remove the ribs of the speaker gill on consoles where it was a simple as removing some screws and loosening small dabs of glue. They turned out pretty well and I didn't have to scrape out all the nooks and crannies when stripping. Whats the general consensus on doing that?
To each his own? or am I courting some sort of disaster when I do that? I have a 37-650 I'm planning on starting to strip tonight and am considering removing the speaker ribs/bars....
I thought I'd post about this project I'm working on. I decided to put the slightly daunting re-wiring of my Philco 39-40 on hold for poorer weather, and since it's finally spring, try and figure out how to refinish cabinets.
I got a model 38-8 for free not long ago, and it... looked like it spent the past 50 years in a damp basement. The veneer was all present and in good shape, but the finish had mostly peeled off. I'm also missing the center tuning knob unfortunately. It's a very small console- and I figured since it's not particularly desirable, it could be a good place to start.
So far I've mostly got the old finish off with lacquer thinner, but ran out of both it and steel wool and still need to take the finish off the grill bars. It was a pleasant surprise to see the nice inlay down the front of the cabinet. I'm assuming walnut veneer? I started sanding the front panel with 600 grit sandpaper, but... it started not looking so great so I stopped. I might go back over that a bit more lightly with finer sandpaper... I also have some grain filler on order right now.
It appears that the trim- grill bars, and around the top and bottom of the cabinet, were a darker brown than the rest of the cabinet. I am debating using the same extra dark walnut color toner as for the sides and top of my Philco 640 (which is my next cabinet project), on this trim on the 38-8. Probably darker than original, but it might look nice?
Yes, my radio and my preference and all that... but... kind of was hoping for other opinions as well. Part of me wants to keep it 'just like' the original, but I also feel like it's not a rare or valuable radio so I should 'make it my own' to an extent.
I know this is the cabinet section, but I briefly looked at the chassis, and tested the transformer windings, shadow meter and audio transformer and everything seemed ok. All but one resistors are still ok. Speaker looks new. There's one capacitor partially disconnected (which I can't seem to find on the schematic- that's a question for the electronic restoration section here!), so I bet that came off way back when and someone put it in the basement to 'fix it someday'. I'm hoping if I can get it working, performance will be similar to my 610- I only have a 3ft antenna on it and there isn't a blank spot on the dial!
I'm working on this car radio that is having a problem with the second IF transformer, SMD, and I'm trying to figure out how to wire the thing back in. The thing appears to have had 4 capacitors, it had 6 connections going to it. With the mica disc gone it can no longer have the 6 connections. On the schematic the coil to left isn't a problem but the other seems to be and I'm scratching my head. Any suggestions on how to fix this thing?
Hello All…I am new to the Phorum so please bear with me.
I have a question on a CT-2 Chrysler Deluxe Radio that I have just started on.
I am using the rider’s schematic which is difficult to get a good hardcopy of.
I have recapped most of the radio with the exception on the a few metal cans. I would assume that the 3 metal cans with the exception of the filter caps are all electrolytic as there is nothing in the part numbers that designate them.
I have replaced the electrolytic filter caps and am confused. I assumed the metal can was the negative side of the capacitor and as such I wired the replacements that way.
On power up I am measuring -206vdc on the plates and +4.5vdc on the filaments with respect to chassis ground. Did I put the caps in backwards?
I seem to have a knack for finding majorly "modified" sets. So I'm hoping some of the phine phorum members who are a lot more knowledgeable on un-modifiying other's ideas back to schematic correct can give me some much needed guidance. Perhaps my savior on many occasions previously, Terry, can have a look.
I'll start with an "easy" question....the tuning knob does not move the tuning capacitor or the movie dial drum manually. It's froze. There is an electric motor for tuning and I'm wondering if the set needs to be under power and the motor running for the tuning mechanism to function, either manually or with electrical assist?
Now the fun part...someone was trying to convert this to some type of push-pull configuration and added two extra speakers and an extra audio output transformer. AND...added an extra tube! A 6SC7...
1.) A 6L6 was subbed for the 6F6. My tube substitution manual doesn't list a 6L6 as a substitute. Are they compatible?
2.) An extra RCA jack was added with two slide off/on switches attached to it. It says "TV or FM" and then below it "Phono". Now there already was a factory RCA jack for phono on the back of the chassis. Should this just be cut out and eliminated? :
3.) Here's the extra audio output transformer mounted on top of the chassis, top and bottom view. I assume this was added to power two extra speakers mounted below the main speaker?
4.) Here is the extra added 6SC7 tube top and bottom. This looks to be a total mess and how is the best way to eliminate this?
I am getting low volume on this radio with the volume control turned all the way up when tuned into a very strong local station. I have gone through this radio and replaced all the electrolytics, paper caps, some of the micas, and out of spec resistors. All the antenna, RF, oscillator, and IF coils show continuity. In the process of aligning this radio I noticed that I could not get the secondary of the 1st IF to peak no matter how much I turn the adjusting trimmer screw. I took the cover off of the IF to see if there was anything obvious and noticed that there is a black wire that makes one wrap around the secondary coil between the third and forth windings. Here is a picture of the IF. The top coil with four windings is the secondary coil and you can see the black wire with some of the insulation flaking off.
One end of the wire goes to chassis ground and the other end attaches to pin 5 of the 6K7 I.F. amp tube. I see nothing on the circuit diagram that indicates this. Circuit diagram is at http://oldtech.net/Philco/37-630p1.gif.
Any ideas as to the purpose of this wire and if it relates to my problem of not being able to peak the secondary of the 1st IF and low volume?
Other things I have tried or checked.
1. Voltages check out reasonably against those listed on Riders, page 7-59.
2. Subbed tubes - no change.
3. Get loud hum when touching grid cap of 6Q7 tube.
4. My shadow meter is open so I subbed a 1500 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor to replace it.
5. I noticed I get somewhat louder reception when a gound is connected to the gound terminal on the back.
Two more questions. The circuit diagram shows the aerial and ground terminals. Is the antenna to be connected to the red or black terminal or does it make any difference. Also there is a link attached to the ground terminal that can be swiveled between the black terminal and terminal 4. What is the correct position for this link?
I also posted this over at the antique radios site.