Hi all,
Does anyone have a recommendation for a good general book on wood cabinet restoration techniques? Or a website with good info, or youtube videos? Hoping to improve my general knowledge and techniques.
Thanks,
George
Greetings everyone!
I recently was given a Philco Model 77. Cabinet is in great shape, almost looks new. I am going to replace all of the capacitors and that shouldn't be too tough once I get past the tar. My question is in regard to one of the wire wound tubular resistors. The shorter one is a two-stage affair and the 800 ohm winding is open. Looks like someone was into it before me and about half of the winding is missing, so even if I could re-connect, it would probably be the wrong value. I was thinking about attaching a power resistor between the lugs and was wondering if 5 Watts would be sufficient, or if I should go higher? The schematic makes reference to all resistors being 1 Watt, with the exception of the two wire wound jobs.
I was also thinking about rewinding it, but not sure what type of wire I should use or where I may obtain it.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you and regards,
George B. Reisdorf
Does anyone have the text for the brown paper sticker on the 46-420 "Hippo" that talks about connecting the wire if using an external antenna?
The one on the radio chassis I am working is missing a section in the middle, and I would like to make a replacement.
Regards,
PeterN
I am currently working on a 46-420 "Hippo" and need to replace the line cord with the molded-on strain relief. This presses into a hole with a "shoulder" to hold onto the chassis.
Is there a "best practice" method to secure a new line cord as this type of strain relief is no longer made?
I was thinking of grinding off the shoulder, and installing a current type of compression strain relief, but am not sure what Dremel grinding bit is appropriate for the steel chassis.
Any advice?
Regards,
PeterN
I believe this radio has a 1st IF issue, the primary is 66 ohms the schematic shows 34 ohms, the secondary is 71 ohms and the schematic shows 47 ohms. It looks different than the 2nd IF from below, I think the 1st IF was replaced with one of the wrong resistance. I sent 460 KHz tone from the tone generator, on the grid cap of the 6A7, it is very faint at the secondary of the 1st IF and strong into the primary.
The 2nd IF measures 36 ohms on the primary, schematic shows 34 ohms, the secondary reads 45 ohms the schematic shows 85 ohms which I hope is an error on the schematic, 85 ohms seems a bit high.
When the 460 tone is put on the secondary of the 1st IF, I can get the tone all the way to the output coil.
I hoping I can find the correct IF coils. I think the 2nd IF is probably okay and the original one.
On the 1st IF there is no short between the primary and the secondary. This radio has two compensators on the 2nd IF, I believe this is run #11 according to the Evolution of Philco Model 60 by Ron.
Thanks
Jim
Hi all,
Not sure what happened to my original post. Bits and pieces were missing.
As I mentioned in past posts I am trying to learn this hobby slowly. I have a 40-120 philco I have been tinkering with for a couple of months now. I also bought 2 more off of eBay, one of which is in working order. My goal was to take the schematic and study the way everything is connected while slowly re-wiring the one I had. I managed to overcome several hiccups with bad RF coil and broken domino capacitor lead. I have the original radio, I started with, wired identical, from what I can tell, to the radio that works perfectly.
All of the original wax tubular capacitors have been replaced with brand new capacitors from Antique Radio Supply that are equal in microfarads as well as voltages. If the voltage size was not available I chose the next size up, never lower. All resistors were replaced with brand new resistors of the exact Ohms and wattage. I have tested all the new capacitors to make sure their capacitance is still true and so far all the new caps have been reading very close to spot on. The only resistors that haven't been replaced are number 34 which is the long filament resistor and it reads correctly. Also number 27 which is a 130 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor connected on the bottom of the 35A5 tube. It tests as 135 ohms.
I am at the point of power on which I have done with a Variac and my Cristy A2 dim bulb tester. Pilot light comes on slightly bright and then dims as the tubes warm up. All I hear is the exact same sound as when you have a bad filter cap. The volume control does work at decreasing and increasing the volume of the hum. I have checked the new electrolytic cap for microfarads, correct polarity, and basic leakage with the Cristy A2 Tester which can also test for leakage. Both sides are perfect. All other capacitors, which are all brand new from Antique Radio Supply, test correct as well. I have swapped out the tubes with the set that works perfect into the set I am working with and get the same result.
I have been busy watching Mr. Carlson and Glasslinger on YouTube for ideas. So far the closest thing I have seen is a video about a Ground loop, but I cannot find anything like that.
What might my next step be? If someone could give me an idea on what to check next it would be much appreciated.
I just started restoration of a 41-221. I need to know how to remove the clips holding the tenite bezel on the cabinet. I didn't want to get too rough for fear of damaging the bezel.
I have agreed to restore a Philco 37-650 console for an acquaintance and the first thing I checked was the speaker. Of course the output transformer is open. This is an 8 tube chassis with 6f6 push/pull configuration. I told him I'm pretty sure Hammond will have what he needs but what exactly DOES he need? Anybody know the specs of this particular transformer? Thanks folks.
Hello all.
When I bought my 37-690 years ago I ended up buying, from the same person the extra complete insides for a 37-690 including all speakers, clarifier's,etc...
I kept these as I thought I'd possibly need them for my 37-690 but it was restored last year and needed nothing.
My question is does the two chassis and speakers fit into a 38-690 as well?
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