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  Model 41-290 dial stringing help
User Avatar Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration
Posted by: gcerio - 01-14-2018, 04:27 PM - Replies (2)

Hello, 

Can anyone direct me to a place where I can download or copy the dial stringing guide for a Philco 41-290?  

Any help would be appreciated!  Thank you.

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  Philco 37-630T only buzzes
User Avatar Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration
Posted by: Tucker - 01-14-2018, 04:24 PM - Replies (3)

I just got done with the recap of this radio and when I powered it up on a Variac I only get a faith buzz out of the speaker if the volume control is up most of the way.  I touched the grid caps on top of the tubes that have grid caps on top and only two make noise. The 6Q7G makes a buzz thru the speaker and the 6K7G (if amp) makes a click thru the speaker. The 6A8G (detector) and the 6K7G (rf) make no buzz at all.
I re-tested the tubes on my tester and they're good. Th rectifier and output tube do get warm and the transformer stays cool.
I'm new to troubleshooting a Radio this old - only worked on AA5's before this.  Would the next step be checking the voltages ? Or am I overlooking something simple?

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  FADA 790
User Avatar Forum: Other Radios (Non-Philco)
Posted by: Raleigh - 01-14-2018, 02:56 PM - Replies (1)

I am restoring an early 50s FADA AM/FM radio for a friend.  There are a mix of paper and ceramic capacitors inside.  (And a few electrolytics.)

One type that I think must be ceramic are hard, white cylinders, smaller than paper, labeled "Hi Q 1500 mmF 20%."  There are similar caps with other values ranging from 2 pf to about 250 pf.  None are marked with a voltage spec, nor does the parts list say anything about voltage.

My question is, are these high temperature stability caps?  Most of them don't look like they are associated with the oscillators or anywhere else requiring high stability.  The exceptions are some 2 mmf, 10 mmf and 30 mmf caps that the parts list call "FM Oscillator coupling," "osc. feedback," and "osc grid cap," so those could need to be stable with temperature.

Some are bad.  My question is, do I need to look for temperature stable caps, or can I replace them with poly or mica caps 500 volts or higher to be safe?  If I do need high stability caps what type should I use and where would I find them?

Thanks!

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  Console Grand speaker
User Avatar Forum: Philco Cabinet Restoration
Posted by: Brad Winder - 01-14-2018, 02:17 PM - Replies (1)

Hi everyone,

I am attempting to complete a 1928 "Console Grand" speaker. The cabinet has beautiful original finish, but was missing it's actual speaker assembly. I located a nice working on on evilpay...I guess I paid a bit much for it, but I asked myself when the last time I actually saw one up for sale, let alone a working one., and with a nice original cord.

But now I need one thing to finish it...the bottom of the legs have been cut off! I assume this was done, because by "trimming" a couple inches off the leg height, it is now the right height to be a side table for your chesterfield!

What are the chances of finding matching legs, to salvage the bottoms off? Did Philco use a same/similar leg on any consoles?

Baring that, I could turn new ones on my lathe, if I knew the height and diameter...



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  Philco 40-81
User Avatar Forum: Philco Cabinet Restoration
Posted by: smeek111 - 01-14-2018, 11:49 AM - Replies (4)

Hello,

Recently purchased a Philco battery operated radio model 40-81. It has a canvas covering with a strip print. Anyone know if replacement canvas is available. I did Google but found nothing under the terms I used anyway. Was told this is where all the Philco experts are.  Thanks all.

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  Proper hookup wire to use
User Avatar Forum: Other Radios (Non-Philco)
Posted by: murf - 01-13-2018, 09:18 PM - Replies (5)

Hello fella,s and Brenda,
Have a new topic to discuss.
Hookup wire gauge etc. best to use for chassis restore?
Best suppliers?
Have been trying to destroy old radios now for about 5 years with pretty good track record thanks to some people on the forum and shear luck.
Question is, where is everybody buying their wire, and what gauge do you prefer?
Myself, I like the solid wire versus stranded because it is easier to solder in.
I have bought from an online antique radio supplier which only sells 22 gauge wire rated at 600 volts.
They also offer cloth covered for a quite a bit more.
Problem I am finding with this supplier is the cost of shipping if you want to order 5 to 8 rolls of wire.
Ebay has a bunch of Chinese wire which is rated at 300 volts.
Some of the 22 gauge x 600 volt wire that is on ebay has very thin insulation and just looks undersized.
Myself, I would like to get 20 gauge x 600 volt with a decent insulating jacket similar to what I was buying from above supplier, which has a thicker insulation jacket but again it's only 22 gauge wire.
My current antique radio supplier that has stated above wire now is charging more for shipping than the cost of the wire.
What do you guy's think about this?
murf

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  The Mighty 39-80
User Avatar Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration
Posted by: Radioroslyn - 01-13-2018, 04:09 PM - Replies (2)

After speaking with a new member abt his set he was a little hesitant to service it himself so I offered. Normally I don't take in service work but I was getting tired of beating my head against the wall on a couple '40s Philco sets (I hate loctal tubes and their worthless sockets!) so it was a nice reprieve to work on something nice and simple.

So the chassis was sent along w/a bevy of batteries. First order of business was to replace the battery cable and ant/gnd wiring. Next where the caps and checking the resistors. All where close to tolerance. Strung up some batteries and tried to wake her up. Heavy sleeper didn't want to wake up. Did some checking to find that the off/on switch on the filament side was open. A jumper fixed that temporarily and gave it another try. It sprang to life and was working w/a few gremlins.

Volume control was very noisy and only turned about 40% of it normal rotation. Out and apart came the control used a little bit of WD-40 on the pot and contact cleaner on the switch section. Bart (the Simpson 260) said it was ok. I believed him. Back it went and work fine. The rotation issue was caused by the actuator for the off/on flag it was hitting the bracket for the dial. With a little manipulation was able to clear up path for the actuator. Did the IF and RF alignment. Plays swell! I was curious about how much current was it using from the B batteries. Well the answer is about 6ma on a strong signal and about 6.25ma on weak signals do to the avc action. That works out to about .5 watt total power consumed. Sounds like just about all of it is used in the audio output stage as it plays pretty loud for a farm set. The more important question does it draw any current when it's turned off as this will run the batteries down. Nope no current when off.

Was listening to CHML out of Canada last night.
Next step is to figure out how to make up a friendly battery pack. Have to buy some 9v battery snap connectors and make some sort of connector to fit the old A/B battery plug. Have to see what I've got in my bag of tricks.



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  The Fisher 100-R
User Avatar Forum: Vintage Hi-Fi, Stereo and Audio
Posted by: Ron Ramirez - 01-09-2018, 10:30 PM - Replies (9)

So I've been restoring a Fisher 100-R AM/FM tuner from 1960. Only five paper film "dog turd" caps (they look like brown Orange Drops but they will require replacement), three electrolytics in one large can, and a selenium rectifier that must be replaced with silicon. Easy to restore. The only drawback of the 100-R is the 6G-E12 dual eye tube used as an FM and AM tuning indicator. It has become "unobtainium". Of course the 6G-E12 in my 100-R is weak Icon_sad

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  New member and new (to me) 37-9
User Avatar Forum: Philco Home Radios
Posted by: Spook50 - 01-09-2018, 05:36 PM - Replies (12)

Hi folks. For a long time I've had a passing interest in antique radios, specifically ones from the mid to late 30's. Well for Christmas my family found me a Philco 37-9. What's cool is that it's in very good shape considering its age and the use it's seen. The cabinet just has a little wear and tear along with cracked veneer on the top, and the radio itself still (sorta) works! There's a missing knob, and one of the three is cracked. The tuning dial is very hard to turn and won't go more than a couple degrees past the left (clockwise) stop. But the amplifier and speaker both still work and we were able to tune in one of the very few local AM stations.

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  90X Speaker question
User Avatar Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration
Posted by: patrician56 - 01-08-2018, 09:52 PM - Replies (6)

    Hi, Yet another newbie here.

I received a very clean 90X ( 2 type 47 push pull output tubes model) from the family that purchased it new in Bridgeport, CT in 1932. 
I am in the "getting to know you" phase  with this radio and noticed that the field coil on the speaker seem to be loose. I can move the coil 1/8" front to back and it will slightly twist around the armature. 
This aroused my "I know enough to make me dangerous" gene which brought me to the forum to ask if the field coil was cemented or perhaps wedged in place? I don't think that loose is correct.
Any thoughts? 

Thanks in advance, 
Fran

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