Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Printable Version
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RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Crist Rigotti - 05-31-2015
Thanks guys for all the comments. I am really looking forward to restoring this baby! I have to finish the 60B I'm in the middle of right now. Then either a 116-122, 37-630, or this Model 20 next. All good whatever I choose.
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - GarySP - 05-31-2015
Also noticed that the speaker wires are frayed at the plug on the back of the chassis. I would clip them back to good insulation and resolder them into the socket pins. From the photo it looks like you have plenty of extra wire on the harness to do this. Ounce of prevention kind of thing. Take care, Gary
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - morzh - 05-31-2015
I have three 20s, restored two so far. I would not reuse the speaker wires, the insulation is hardened and cracks easily. Change it.
The backelite plug needs the rivets drilled, and upon resoldering new wires NO riveting. Remove a copper rivet from the mandrel, put it through and with blunt pointed tool gently tap it to flare.
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Crist Rigotti - 05-31-2015
(05-31-2015, 08:35 PM)GarySP Wrote: Also noticed that the speaker wires are frayed at the plug on the back of the chassis. I would clip them back to good insulation and resolder them into the socket pins. From the photo it looks like you have plenty of extra wire on the harness to do this. Ounce of prevention kind of thing. Take care, Gary
Gary,
That's exactly what I'm planning to do. Thanks.
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Crist Rigotti - 05-31-2015
(05-31-2015, 10:12 PM)morzh Wrote: I have three 20s, restored two so far. I would not reuse the speaker wires, the insulation is hardened and cracks easily. Change it.
The backelite plug needs the rivets drilled, and upon resoldering new wires NO riveting. Remove a copper rivet from the mandrel, put it through and with blunt pointed tool gently tap it to flare.
The speaker wires are pretty flexible as far as the quick examination I've done so far and in pretty good shape. I'll do a closer look though when the time comes. Not sure what you mean by "Remove copper rivet from mandrel," . What copper rivet and what mandrel?
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Fred Taylor - 06-01-2015
Nice radio Crist, all in tack no parts missing. I haven't seen any of those 70,s around . You did real good on the price, the speaker alone is worth what you paid for whole radio. Im sure when your done with it will look great
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - morzh - 06-01-2015
Crist
If (or rather when) you disassemble the backelite speaker plug (the one plugging into the chassis) because the wires are frayed right at where they enter the plug, you will have top remove the two copper rivets that hold the plug together. usually done by drilling them out.
After that you will have to put the plug back together. Of course you can go for screws but for it to look nice you might want to use rivets. Copper rivets.
Because of the backelite being fragile you cannot use riveting tool - it will shatter the plug to pieces.
Now the rivet
has the rivet barrel itself (the one that gets smooshed and holds things together) and the mandrel - the rod with the hemi-spherical head that smooshes the rivet when the riveting tool pulls it in.
What I did (and some other people too) was using copper rivets, removing the mandrel (since you are not using the tool), feeding the barrel through and then flaring it.
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Crist Rigotti - 06-01-2015
(06-01-2015, 09:13 AM)morzh Wrote: Crist
If (or rather when) you disassemble the backelite speaker plug (the one plugging into the chassis) because the wires are frayed right at where they enter the plug, you will have top remove the two copper rivets that hold the plug together. usually done by drilling them out.
After that you will have to put the plug back together. Of course you can go for screws but for it to look nice you might want to use rivets. Copper rivets.
Because of the backelite being fragile you cannot use riveting tool - it will shatter the plug to pieces.
Now the rivet
has the rivet barrel itself (the one that gets smooshed and holds things together) and the mandrel - the rod with the hemi-spherical head that smooshes the rivet when the riveting tool pulls it in.
What I did (and some other people too) was using copper rivets, removing the mandrel (since you are not using the tool), feeding the barrel through and then flaring it.
Got it! Thanks.
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Crist Rigotti - 06-07-2015
I had a chance to pull the chassis and it looks pretty good. there are a few very minor rust spots. Somebody has replaced the inter-stage transformer with a Thoradson 20A17 transformer. So much for being all original! I'll have to do some research to see if the transformer is a good replacement or not. It really sticks out like a sore thumb. I gave the coils a quick look and they looked good. I didn't ohm them out though.
[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%20Model%2020%20Lowboy/100_1234a_zpsne3ddqh7.jpg]
[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%20Model%2020%20Lowboy/100_1239a_zpsyr06w7dm.jpg]
[Image: http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t458/crigotti/Philco%20Model%2020%20Lowboy/100_1258a_zpsunpg4jfc.jpg]
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - GarySP - 06-07-2015
Chassis looks good underneath, with the exception of that transformer. Bank on all the resistors having drifted way up out of spec. All of mine were nearly double the resistance they should have been. The coils are known for opening due to the nitrocellulose insulator between the primary and the secondary windings. More trouble pulling them ou of the chassis than rewinding them though. A good project radio. Take care, Gary
RE: Philco Model 20 1930 Lowboy - Crist Rigotti - 06-18-2015
Just saw this. Thanks for the additional info Gary.
I have my eye on a Philco 70A to add to my collection.