I am heading to radio shop with my 650 PX that I pushased at auction last Nov. Will do a tear down today and start on cabinet that had been thru @#$@ell and back . Bad shape but worthy of restoring this rare Philco only 1500 made probably not many survived . This will be a full blown ,out of this world make over, stay tuned to this local post for up to date news and information on this historic face lift. See I am going insane
(This post was last modified: 02-09-2016, 08:41 PM by Fred Taylor.)
OK here is what I have to work with. The sides of cabinet are in bad shape and will have new wood substrate and mahogany veneer installed along with the lid cover that is hinged to swing open for the phonograph. The veneer on the top lid was all splitting and coming loose. The only way to make it new again is to replace it, this will take some time to do and will be costly for the veneer , may cost around $100 just for the veneer and substrate. The cabinet is gutted and I started on stripping the veneer on lid, then filled with a auto glaze then blocked sanded flat and smooth. This way the new veneer will have a nice flat surface to rest on. That's about all I got done today on it, had to work on some other radios as well.
I don't know if wood glue will stick to body filler,,,,body filler usually doesn't "like" glue,,,usually peels,,,,maybe YOU have had better luck with it,,,or a good secret,,,Good luck,,CHEERS…
I spent the day working on this Philco 650px, I had stripped the substrate and veneer off and made sure the suface was flat a straight, Using bondo a beltsander, air file and hand file block sander. If the surface your putting the substraight and veneer on isn't flat the veneer wont be flat and you definitely want it flat . Then I finished stripping the cabinet. I made templates out of auto masking paper then cut my veneer , then you block sand the edges after its glued on. The pictures will give you a good idea on how I did it.
Few more, sanding is next and any scratches nicks and in perfections will be addressed at this time. Grain filling will be after everything is perfect, edges , body lines, grooves straight, flat and smooth surfaces using 240 grit before filler. Next weekend will that part and will post again at that time, thanks for looking and ask questions about this , you can learn how to do this at home and save some money
(02-08-2016, 12:18 AM)OldRestorer Wrote: Wait...
What is the spray adhesive for?
Looking good Fredrick
Me
Kirk, I use it to glue down the veneer, it has worked well for me. Its not my # 1 choice see I don't have a vacuum system or press . The veneer is whats called WOW veneer (Wood on Wood) meaning no paper back on the back just sheet of a cheap grain veneer that's where the glue is goes. I also use a heavy steel roller and roll the veneer after its applied. The 3M is high strength # 90 made to glue down things such as counter tops in kitchen etc.. You have to spray both surfaces and there is no trueing back once you start to put the veneer down, make good fitting templets first and test fit each piece 2 or 3 times and make little pencil marks to line your self up before u place it down. Takes practice and I have reuined a few pieces of veneer before because they weren't lined up right.
(This post was last modified: 02-08-2016, 07:11 AM by Fred Taylor.)
. Bad shape but worthy of restoring this rare Philco only 1500 made probably not many survived . 
This will be a full blown ,out of this world make over, stay tuned to this local post for up to date news and information on this historic face lift. 
