Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Philco 514
#16

There all pretty much same under the hood. It must have the wrong p/s cover as it has a proper id plate riveted on w/the improper model number. Online when looking for info the 511 shows up often.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#17

Terry, I noticed that.. I guess its rare to have the P/s cover at all..

Thats why I thought it was a 514 ..

Skip...
#18

So Skip,
While your are cooling your heals till you get a packet from Chuck there are some simple things to get the chassis ready.
http://www.tuberadioland.com/files/Philco511_10web.jpg

Those round thingy just above the three rf coil that look like a condenser on a bracket. These are #'s 7,12,and 17 One at a time unscrew the mounting screw. turn it over and cut the ground wire off. Solder a .1mf 630v from the ground wire to the end terminal on the end that is connected the coil. Repeat two more times, those caps are always shorted and kill the B+ to the rf amp tubes.

Measure the resistance from that end terminal to it's associated plate pin of the rf amp tube. Should is a low resistance like 50 ohm or less. If not coil is open. Repeat two more times.

Measure the resistance across the two audio transformers to find any open windings.

That should keep you busy for a while. I think Mrs. Skip owes me a thank you for keeping you out of her hair. [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...on_lol.gif]

GLOM

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#19

Ok Terry...

I measured the following   # 7  108.5 Ohms ( in circuit cap read .47 ) This is not removing the ground ..
                                         # 12 103.1 Ohms ( in circuit cap read .47 ) This is not removing the ground
                                         # 17  123.4 Ohms ( in circuit cap read .47 ) This is not removing the ground

So the caps appear not shorted.. Since the Cap and resistor are one should I leave as is??

I removed the ground from # 7 and remeasured it reads .147 now..

The 2 output Transformers read  # 22  1346 Ohms in and 5.3 K out..
                                                    # 25  1385 Ohms in and 5.3 K out..

The Transformer to the 80 Tube  Pins 2 to 3  346 Ohms.. to CTR tap about 170 each leg,,

Skip...
#20

As this is turning into a restoration thread, I have moved it to Philco Electronic Restoration.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#21

Thanks Ron...

Skip...
#22

>I measured the following   # 7  108.5 Ohms ( in circuit cap read .47 ) This is not removing the ground ..
                                         # 12 103.1 Ohms ( in circuit cap read .47 ) This is not removing the ground
                                         # 17  123.4 Ohms ( in circuit cap read .47 ) This is not removing the ground
I'm a little confused did you measure from the end terminal to the 26 tubes plate pin (#2)? Seems like the coil resistance are a bit high I'm thinking abt 25 ohms or so.
Everything else looks good. Did you test the caps for leakage (7,12,17). You can test them in the set when you try to get it working. Symptom is low B+ on the 26 tubes.


Attached Files Image(s)
   

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#23

Ok Schematic says they are supposed to be 100 Ohms.. And Cap of .1 uf..

Did not test for leakage.. But I can do that..

What should the voltage rating be?

Skip...
#24

I think what you are measuring is the resistor that is connected to the cap. We're not particularly interested it that . We are interested in the coil winding above it. Note the drawing and find the ohm sign and connect your ohm meter there at the coil and the plate pin of the 26. This will measure the coil's resistance not the 1oo ohm decoupling resistor.

Test voltage for the cap @ 300v.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#25

Ok, I understand now.. The Coil #6 primary( Connected to Plate) = 1.6 ohms sec = 2.0 Ohms..

same for # 11 and 16..

#1 the 10K Pot kind of flackey..Will have to take apart and Clean..

#2 Primary connected to CTR of pot = 2.4 Ohms Sec 2.0 Ohms

The Big problem will be the Filter Condenser Block

Skip...
#26

Looks like your in good shape!
>The Big problem will be the Filter Condenser Block 
Problem? Messy and stinky maybe [Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...wisted.gif].

Seems like you've started a revolution, I see there is there is another one of the unloved on the board (511)

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#27

Ok, While trying to do a voltage check on the caps with the resistor.. I noticed the following...

When I measure the caps with a digital meter Waveteek CM20A I get a reading of about .15 Uf But when I try to use my Heathkit IT-11 I cannot get any reading..

Also after removing the cap and resistor I tried to do a voltage check It showed NO good even at 3 Volts...


Also measured with a Chinese digital meter..

#1 470.1 nf ESR 56 Ohms Vloss 12%
#2 692,2 nf ESR 42 Ohms Vloss 14%
#3 362.3 nf ESR 60 Ohms Vloss 10%


Skip...
#28

Ok I forgot to measure the Primary of the power Transformer.. When I tried to do so it was open..

However after a little troubleshooting I found the On off switch was bad.. The primary now reads 12 Ohms..

So now on to the repairs...


Skip...
#29

(07-10-2017, 04:24 PM)Arran Wrote:  Globe or balloon style tubes are a nice feature to have, but not really necessary. I might think about using them in this case since it's a model 514 and not a dead common model 511, still it's not as though you can flip the lid up on a hinge and display the tubes like you can with a Radiola 60, it's still like a steel bread box.  I would have a look around in this shed to see if maybe someone removed the tubes for testing and forgot to put them back, you may hit paydirt and save a few $$$.
Regards
Arran

Just to let you know-I finished mine up pretty much today.I had trouble but with the 26's plate voltage gone missing,turned out 1 of the new RF bypass caps were shorted,replaced and now working pretty good,gotta neutralize it still because it tends to get garbled on strong stations.Restuffing the cap can was not that bad to do.
Thanks to Terry for the assist!
Phil
#30

Ok thanks Thats good to know.. Glad you got yours working.. I am doing the Resistor cap combo now.. Also the 2 other small cap blocks.. Not sure what I want to do with the Big one yet.. seems like a real PITA..

Skip..




Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)