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City: Roseville,Ca.
Some WD40 into those switches oughta make 'em work again.
Some use heat,others swear by freezing the can to get 'em gutted.I've always had good luck with a heat gun.Philco cans were filled with bee's wax so they don't smell when heating,yours looks like it's filled with tar.Heat it up outside so you don't stink up your house!☺
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Yea Mine seems to be a replacement from 1928..
I will try the switches.. I have some coming just in case..
Parts are due to arrive on Monday.. So I guess over weekend I will try to gut the can OH Goody...
Skip...
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Ok Continuing.. Looked at speaker that came with this...
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I measured the speaker leads and it showed a open.. But not sure I measured correctly?
Never seen a speaker like this before.. Can anyone explain it? and how to see if its OK...
Also how do you get the speaker cloth off?? looks like its under a ring??
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Thanks
Skip...
(This post was last modified: 08-01-2017, 09:59 PM by
vecher.)
Posts: 133
Threads: 27
Joined: Aug 2006
City: Roseville,Ca.
Not sure of your measuring points-the round thing is a matching transformer for impedance matching.As you can see it's a PM speaker,I call it a "pin drive",can't remember the proper term but ron has an article in the tech section about them.
The grill cloth is indeed held on by the ring-I've never been able to get the ring off without damaging it,it is pressed on pretty tight.
Phil
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Ok Just got some more parts in for radio.. A original Cap Block From a member( GroundHog74) on a different form.. Question is how do I get it apart? I see a couple of Tabs on top and a lip on the sides.. Any one have a Clue?
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Thanks
Skip...
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Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Gently pry the bottom off by releasing 4 little divets along the bottom.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
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Thanks Terry, That worked.. Now to get all that ( WAX) out..
Skip...
Posts: 933
Threads: 140
Joined: Mar 2015
City: Lansdale
State, Province, Country: PA
OK Back to the speaker.. Since I cannot really tell if its good or not I will replace it with a PM speaker per Ron's Tip.. Question is I have a ( Realistic Transformer 32-1031) that has outputs of 4,8 and 16 Ohms.. But the input is in watts..10,5,2.5,1.25,.62
It say its a 70.7 Volt Transformer on package IF I do the math ( Correctly??) and use
r=V squared / P I get for 10 watts = 500 Ohms..
5 = 1000 ohms
2.5 = 2000 ohms
1.25 = 4000 ohms
.62 = 8000 ohms
Is this the correct way to do this?
Ron says " You need to use a single-ended audio output transformer, with an input impedance of 2000 to 4000 ohms, secondary impedance 4 or 8 ohms (depending on whether you are using a 4 ohm or 8 ohm speaker)"
If I did this right which would be better to use the 2000 or 4000 tap..
Thanks
Skip...
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Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
Pick one and try it till you find the best match. At 180v on the plate your looking at abt 4.8K plate load. With that being said #26 is the actual load for the tube so the value of the transformer may not be really all that critical.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 133
Threads: 27
Joined: Aug 2006
City: Roseville,Ca.
How's it going on the radio?
Is it singing again?
Phil
Posts: 933
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Joined: Mar 2015
City: Lansdale
State, Province, Country: PA
Have not been able to work on it a lot.. But got the Main cap can in and 1/2 way wired up..
I was just going to ask about AC cord.. Mine was open in one lead so I am replacing with a more modern one ( until I can get a replacement).. Question is can I use the Ground lead ( GRN) to chassis.. or should I not even hook it up..
All other caps have been changed and the 2 resistors check out good. So as soon as I get the last of the wires soldered on the Main Cap then I can try a power up..
Stay Tuned...
Skip...
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Joined: Aug 2006
City: Roseville,Ca.
I would not ground the chassis,look at the schematic,1 side of the line cord is hooked to the antenna post thru a cap...
If you want a ground hook a wire from the ground post to ground.
Phil
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City: Lansdale
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Ok Update.. ITS ALIVE... Well mostly.... Voltages look pretty close..
I can RX one station near me at 1440 Mhz .. The volume control doesn't seem to work at all. So I assume its bad.. I did check it out before.. IT reads about 63 K instead of 10 K . But at max volume it should read 0 ohms and it reads around 12 ohms intermittent.. But when I wiggle it I can make the sound much loader..
So I will have to take apart again and look at it..
So Making progress..
Skip...
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Joined: Dec 2009
City: Roslyn Pa
B4 you condemn the the control bear in mind that it's a rf gain control connected from the ant to the chassis. If the chassis isn't grounded it will allow rf to bypass or leak across the control and not give you very good control of the volume. I think you'll find w/it the chassis gnded that it will work better.
When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!
Terry
Posts: 933
Threads: 140
Joined: Mar 2015
City: Lansdale
State, Province, Country: PA
Ok How can I easily ground the chassis? Can I use the Ground lead (GRN) from the Power cord and connect to Chassis?
Skip...
