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Needing lots of help Restoring a Philco Model 48-1262
#1

Hello !, My name is Matthew and I just recently bought a Philco Model 48-1262, I am recently just getting into the hobby of restoring classic radios, witch means I know nothing and have no clue what I'm doing ?, Please If anyone could help me in any way I would be very  appreciative ?.
#2

Welcome to the Phorum Matthew!
Icon_wave

Lots of people who can help you through your restoration here!  How much do you know about electricity, taking voltage and resistance measurements and what equipment do you have?

A good first read is Phil Nelson's "Beginners" topic.

Second, there is a good copy of the Service Bulletin for your model at the Audiophool site.  You will need the Djvu reader to view it but he has links to the reader download on his websites.  If you can't make it work, post here and I can convert it to PDF for you.

Read through some of the electronic and cabinet restoration threads on this phorum to get a feel for what people do and how they go about it.  Explore the Tech Section to see what information is available.  Your model is a 1948 model and thus more "modern" than some of the older Philcos but still well in the range of many of the restorations that people do on this phorum.

You will need some basic skills and equipment.  A decent volt/ohm meter and soldering iron (I use a simple 40 watt pencil iron and I have a larger iron for some times when 40 just won't heat up a connection -- usually something connected directly to the chassis).   A signal generator will come in handy for troubleshooting and aligning the radio after you finish recapping.  In your case, your radio does not have a power transformer in it so I would emphatically recommend you get an isolation transformer to use between you house power and the radio while you are working on it on your bench for any energized testing (for and example of one see: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-VIZ-Isot...Ciid%253A1

As you'll read in the Beginners notes, you will be recapping the radio by replacing all the paper and electrolytic capacitors with new ones.  Some people stuff the new ones inside the old ones, others simply replace them.  You will want to check the value of the resistors as you go along and replace any of those that are more than 20% out of specification.  In some cases, to make those measurements, you will need to unsolder one end of the resistor to ensure you are only measuring the resistor and not some other electrical path in the radio.

A tube tester is nice but if you are not going to get into this sport in a larger way then not necessary right away. You can check the filaments in the tubes with an ohm meter and then see if the set works after you get it all recapped. by checking voltages in the set you may be able to track down weak or bad tubes or you can get some replacement tubes and swap them out to see if it works.

Enjoy!
#3

Hi Matt and welcome to the Phorum,
Here is the service info for your set  http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013614.pdf  to get started. Imho the phono is somewhat expensive to fix (most need an unavailable cartridge) and some rubber parts that could be around $50. It will only play 78rpm records.
At the end of the service info there is a parts list. Look for listings for condenser that the value is listed in mf or mfd write these down on your things to get list. Ignore condensers listed as mmf or mmfd.
Check ur pm box.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#4

<  Second, there is a good copy of the Service Bulletin for your model at the Audiophool site.
[url=https://www.antiqueradio.org/begin.htm][/url]
Methinks Bob meant to link to this  http://www.audiophool.com/Philco.html
Look under 1948 for your info as Philco model numbers, the 1st two digits indicate the model year in which it was made. It is true from 1937- thru abt 1954. At this point the model numbers start w/a letter. The info found is the same as I posted just a different site.
Bob and his fancy links[Image: http://philcoradio.com/phorum/images/smi...n_cool.gif]

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

Here are some tips I can offer, being a bit new to this as well (some I learned the easy way, some the hard way!)

* Take lots of photos of the underside of the chassis before you get started.
* If you can't read the schematic very well at first, take your time and replace each cap or resistor piece by piece, learning as you go. Whatever you do, don't just start removing stuff or you'll never remember where it all goes.
* You can find most or all of the specific tools and equipment you'll need at swap meets, in the wanted ads here, Craigslist, or ebay. Finding them locally helps save on shipping.
* Most vintage equipment like tube testers, signal generators, etc. will also need caps and resistors replaced with new, unless you buy it from someone who has already done this. On the positive side, once done they typically are very robust and last a long time.
* Radio Shacks are pretty much all closing up and have good sales. I bought an older version of this set that had been sitting on the shelf for years and got a great price: https://www.radioshack.com/collections/s...ng-station
* If you want a tube tester, I'd like to recommend the Conar 223 to get you started. It's basic and does not do mutual conductance tests, but on the positive side it does not require any calibration apart from replacing out of spec caps and resistors, and it has the ability to test all of the tubes you're likely to encounter (including very old 4 and 5-pin tubes). They're also relatively inexpensive compared to a Hickok, which at this point is probably too much engine for your needs.
* Get yourself a good Fluke multimeter. I got a pretty good deal on a used one from ebay, but expect you won't find one super cheap. This is the one I bought and it's excellent: http://en-us.fluke.com/products/digital-...meter.html
* Here's a variac, which you'll likely want to use the first time you power up your radio after you've replaced caps and resistors. The idea is, you slowly increase voltage over a period of time and look for smoke/burning smells, and it helps you prevent damage to the radio if you made a mistake or something else is wrong: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/varia...DQod3AUNPQ

Most of all, take your time, ask questions, and have fun.

Greg

"We are here to laugh at the odds and live our lives so well that Death will tremble to take us."




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