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Philco 86 restoration
#1

Today put it on the bench.
John (Elliott Ness) delivered it to me over a year ago, so its number has just come up.

The chassis seemed clean, then I opened it and there was rust right on the lip, plus mouse droppings. Some. Otherwise clean.
I will show some photos.= later.

I immediately took the meter to the coils: at least in three out of four the primaries seem open; I looked inside - they are badly oxidized, in some the wire is broken and sticks out of the winding. The last one that still has continuity also looks very much oxidized, with spots all over the winding.

Now, what I did not realize when buying the radio that it is (I think fro looking at the sch) a Neutrodyne, and will require neutralizing which I have no experience with (I think Terry done it many times so I will consult him when and if it comes to it).

One tube, 27, the detector is on a spring suspended socket - were microphonics that bad they had to resort to it?

Riders only has the schematic, no other drawings. If someone has the underchassis drawings to share and he neutralizing procedure for 86 - I'd appreciate sharing.

Mike.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#2

Neutralizing procedure:
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=14988

I might have the service manual in PDF format, I will have to look when I get home.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#3

Mike this might come in handy. If not for this project maybe can use or future restorations.
http://www.silverslingshot.com/PDFFILES/...s_1937.pdf
#4

Ron beat me to it. I knew it was on the Phorum but couldn't find it.
>were microphonics that bad they had to resort to it?
I don't recall it being a problem but maybe using the older globe style 227 might be a little bit more sensitive to vibration.
Many of the old battery sets from the mid '20s would have spring, a metal cup that fit over the top of the tube, or rubber mounts for the det tube.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#5

Ron, Mike and Terry - thanks. I feel better Icon_smile
Still... the rewind. Ouch....

I have bad 80 tubes, will probably use a socket from it. Not sure if I have a panel but I'll figure something out.
I could actually disconnect the filament.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#6

Took out the coil that goes to the Det tube. Sure'nuff, the small winding that is over the celluloid insulatir is bare dull coper with green spots and broken in two places.

The wire from the tuning cap that goes to the cap and then to the det grid is fully stripped of insulation and broken close to the caps' lug, with large section of the wire missing and the stubs being needle-sharp. Not sure what caused it: the insulation was likely consumed by a mouse but the solid wire?

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#7

A very hungry mouse?

Well...I looked...no, I have not scanned my 86 service manual, sorry.

--
Ron Ramirez
Ferdinand IN
#8

A mouse with copper deficiency?

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#9

Some pictures.

The chassis

   
   
   
   


One of three Open Coils (all 4 are bad anyway)

   

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#10

The same coil

   
   


The wires eaten by a mouse.

   
   

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#11

Today rewound all 4 coils.

Three of them were exactly the same, and the fourth was not any more complicated.

   
   

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#12

Oh.... forgot to mention, before I embarked on the rewinding spree, I did heck the power transformer. It seems to be good.
The power switch is shot. There are modern similar looking ones, or I could drill out the rivets and try to resuscitate the original one.

And something I never saw before: the big wirewound multi-section resistor is right n the money, all 4 section. Exactly as the in the schematic.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#13

So, I need the pins diagram for the capacitors can.
In this radio there is no real recapping tospeak of except for the capacitors can.
In Riders there is no ingo at all, bare bone sch, then if looking at 95 manual it also has 86 with values but nothing else.
Beitman's has parts. But no can's pinout.


Anyone has it?
Another option is to keep the existing can. It is potted. Might still work.


PS. Just realized that the pins are shown in the manual for 95. Most of them.
Yep I think I'm good.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.
#14

http://www.philcoradio.com/images/phorum/schem/86.jpg

Maybe your mouse friend was knitting a pair of Johnny Coppers.

When my pals were reading comic books
I was down in the basement in my dad's
workshop. Perusing his Sam's Photofoacts
Vol 1-50 admiring the old set and trying to
figure out what all those squiggly meant.
Circa 1966
Now I think I've got!

Terry
#15

Thanks Terry

I'm still not sure how to get to the schematics fom the website.
Good we have'em.

People who do not drink, do not smoke, do not eat red meat will one day feel really stupid lying there and dying from nothing.




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