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Paint stripper
I'm starting restoration of a Philco Model 610. Unfortunately, at some point during its life, the top sides and front trim were painted; paint type unknown. The paint has a flat finish.

What type stripper would you recommend to minimize damage to the underlying wood?

Thanks for your help.

This guy does a lot of radio cabinets and has a lot of videos on YouTube.  Don't know if the stripper he uses will take paint off but it may be worth a look.  I may see what he would charge to do the Acousticraft cabinet for my Scott 16.  I hate refinishing, but will probably attempt my Philco 96 tall boy using the stuff he uses.
Thanks for the youtube tip.It looks like Clean Strip is what I want to use.

Citrus strip is kind of so-so as a remover, it will take old lacquer finishes off with no problem but there were multiple types of paint in use years ago just as there is now, casein paint, oil paint, water paint, etc., and some are more stubborn then others. One problem that you may also run into is that it may have multiple layers, including the original lacquer under it all. I use the old fashioned paint stripper with methylene chloride, because it will pretty much take off anything short of one of those catalyzed finishes that they used on the German radios, the longer you leave it on the more it will take off. Citrus stripper usually works, but its slower, and tends to dry out if you don't cover it with plastic, and you will have to add more if there are multiple layers, it's also more expensive, and you can forget about removing polyurethane with it. It's true that it is not as toxic, but when the old paint may or may not contain lead, it may not matter much unless you are stripping inside.
I have used Clean Strip on my cabinet. It works ok on polyurethane, but does dry out quick. I put it down, let it sit, and used a plastic scraper. A plastic brush works to loosen the old finish. A brass brush helps on corners where it’s deep or rounded. I think you have to keep experimenting to see what works best. It’s not a fun or fast job.

As I do more, I will update my thread on my 38-690.
The idea that any stripper is environmentally friendly is a farce. It might be "green" before you use it, but after it contains the old finish it is not.

I have found that these green strippers work poorly, requiring the use of other solvents and much more of the stripper. That coupled with my previous statement make them not only un-green, but a poor substitute for a real stripper.
"I just might turn into smoke, but I feel fine"
I wonder what Fred would suggest?

My thoughts are that for the average nonprofessional refinisher, only certain chemicals are readily available for us. Yes, people find ways to get other chemicals not found at your home store, but not all of us do that. There is a reason commercial products are held back from the public, as people abuse them and don’t follow the directions. This could lead to personal injury and other bad things. Manufacturers don’t want the liability.

I’m not sayin that folks here are the issue by any means, I’m just making a general statement.

When it comes to stripping, the instructor who taught a refinishing class I was in strongly recommended to use a professional service. This is because they have better products and facilities to do it safely.
That said, I contacted a furniture restoration business and they wanted nothing to do with it. There was no way to make it worth their time, and they were afraid of damaging the cabinet and lifting veneers. Icon_sad

So I’m now in the process of stripping my polyurethaned 38-960 cabinet. If it takes a little longer, so be it. I’ll probably appreciate it more.

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