I am possibly going to be doing a chassis restoration on Philco model 37-116.
I have seen the radio at a glance and it looks like a 38-116 by the tuning dial,which is quite different than the 37-116. My question is: approximately how many Bakelite blocks are in this radio that need to be changed?
Also how much of a challenge is this radio to recap? I know it depends on the qualification of the person doing the work, but relative to a Rogers 10-12 how hard is it.
Thanks in advance Dan
Looks like there are 3 bakelite block caps in the
38-116 , part # 145 a 3793DG, part#131 a 4899DG and part# 64 a 4989SG unless I missed one. I didn't check the
code 125 version.
If you have a
37-116 it looks like there are seven. Part# 65, 72, 79, 84, 90, 116 and 131.
If you are concerned about how difficult it is to recap the bakelites, its not really that hard. Here are two excellent tutorials. One from
morzh on this web site and one from
Philco Repair Bench. Ron has also posted data on the bakelite blocks in the
Philco Service Bulletin No. 289.
There are other folks on this site who have worked on either of those and can better speak to how hard or easy it is to access all the caps.
I recapped Bakelite blocks for the first time recently. Easy-peasy. Straightforward may be a better word to describe it. The hardest part is keeping track of the wiring to the block. I make a sketch of all wiring removed from the block to eliminate any miswiring. Also, make sure you know how the block is wired internally before disassembly. The Philco Repairbench has the resources you need to identify the wiring inside the block.
There is a book on philco cap blocks so you know hwo they are wired.
There are 7 Bakelite blocks to do in a 37-116. I just recently finished doing that on the same set and as a newbie to this hobby I didn't find it especially difficult.
Ron
Thanks for all the reply's. I will certainly have a look at the links that were posted.
All capacitors, backelite or not, have to go, other than micas if any (was two years ago, don't remember).
Backelites are easy.
The tubulars are also easy but ome of them are buried inside the RF chassis and might present some challenges when being extracted. But nothing impossible.
I just finished a 37-116 a few months ago. The majority of the caps are pretty easy to get to, except a couple in the RF chassis. There are two in there that are buried user the arc of coils. I needed to replace the rubber grommets, so I hat to pull my RF chassis regardless. Even with the RF chassis out, it was still a pain to get to those two.
There isn't a whole lot of room under the chassis to add the new lytics. So this was the first radio I restuffed my cans on. As for the bakelite blocks, in addition to the previously mentioned methods, I find you can usually chisel out the old tar. I use a small flat blade screw driver to break out the bits of tar. I just suck them all up with my shop vac. Then use some lacquer thinner on q tips or paper towels to get out what remnants I couldn't get out with the screw driver.
(01-08-2015, 11:03 PM)Nick3092 Wrote: [ -> ]I just finished a 37-116 a few months ago. The majority of the caps are pretty easy to get to, except a couple in the RF chassis. There are two in there that are buried user the arc of coils. I needed to replace the rubber grommets, so I hat to pull my RF chassis regardless. Even with the RF chassis out, it was still a pain to get to those two.
There isn't a whole lot of room under the chassis to add the new lytics. So this was the first radio I restuffed my cans on. As for the bakelite blocks, in addition to the previously mentioned methods, I find you can usually chisel out the old tar. I use a small flat blade screw driver to break out the bits of tar. I just suck them all up with my shop vac. Then use some lacquer thinner on q tips or paper towels to get out what remnants I couldn't get out with the screw driver.
Hi Nick, I was just looking on the form for some info on my philco 37-116 radio. I ran across your post/reply dealing with the caps buried under the RF chassis. How difficult was it to remove the chassis and where did you get the rubber mount/grommet. I purchased this radio over thirty years ago, then I refinished the cabinet. My uncle was a radio repair man and got the radio going. It has been sitting at my parents house for about that long. Now it time to recap it and get it going again. The bakelite cap block are a pain, but i dealt with them before!! I’m more into 5 tube radios and larger table tops, which are less time consuming!!!!! Any help would be appreciate. jeff
Hi radio jeff, welcome to the phorum
Dan;
Is this set a 37-116 or a 37-3116? The reason I ask is that the Canadian set may differ in some ways from most of the U.S built versions, but match up with others depending on the production run and Code number. From what I have heard, never having actually worked on a 1937-38 vintage Philco, is that the chassis are modular, they are made up of sections with plates and screws holding them together with wires connecting the various sections to each other. So to gain access to things you can remove plates and even whole sections if you have to. Bob Andersen's 37-640 restoration series was very enlightening in this respect.
Regards
Arran
(11-13-2015, 02:58 AM)Arran Wrote: [ -> ]Dan;
Is this set a 37-116 or a 37-3116? The reason I ask is that the Canadian set may differ in some ways from most of the U.S built versions, but match up with others depending on the production run and Code number. From what I have heard, never having actually worked on a 1937-38 vintage Philco, is that the chassis are modular, they are made up of sections with plates and screws holding them together with wires connecting the various sections to each other. So to gain access to things you can remove plates and even whole sections if you have to. Bob Andersen's 37-640 restoration series was very enlightening in this respect.
Regards
Arran
Hi Arran, the radio is a philco 37-116. I see that the r-f section does come off and it looks like a pain. I did find some info from others on this forum that have remove that part of the chassis. one person said he was able to get to the caps to without removing the r-f- chassis. I don’t see how , but could have been done. i’m going to take a look at it and assess the situation, but it looks like I'll be removing it, but first i’m going to recap the bakelite block!!! Thanks for your input. Jeff
Jeff, I think Arran was responding to Dan. This thread will get confusing if it morphs into a discussions about two separate radios. A bit of discussion probably not an problem but if you are going to extend the Q&A about your set I think it might help if its in a thread of its own.
(11-13-2015, 04:25 PM)klondike98 Wrote: [ -> ]Jeff, I think Arran was responding to Dan. This thread will get confusing if it morphs into a discussions about two separate radios. A bit of discussion probably not an problem but if you are going to extend the Q&A about your set I think it might help if its in a thread of its own.
Hey Bob , I think your right. I did get an e-mail from Arran, but the subject matter did seem a little off. Maybe i'll pose the question to the forum on an open question/new post. Thanks for the info Bob and have a great day!!! jeff