The PHILCO Phorum

Any advice on the best way to replace those brass rivets or eyelets that hold the dial on the piece of metal in a Philco 16B or 604?.

thanks in advance

Michael Adkison

I suggest either 2-56 or 3-?? machine screws and nuts (I don't remember the thread count of number 3 machine screws), or if you can find them, very tiny aluminum pop rivets.

Orig brass-style escutcheon type "hollow rivets" ( very small sizes), can be purchased from: http://www.dollhouseminiatures.com Im not sure the exact size you are seeking, but the smaller size offered at above website replaces exactly the "clear plastic" type heat formed dial covers to their orig brass escutcheon frames in most all brands vintage Radios that used plastic dial covers!. They offer 2 different sizes in these hard to find brass-rivet items! Search their website in the "electrical" connections area at bottom of webpage if you wish.Then once you "click-on" the "electrical" section of the website , click-on "hardware", then scroll down and find these hard-to-find brass "grommets"!! I searched for these items for years myself, and found them! I have many in-stock now myself! Im not sure if this is the type item you guys are discussing here?,... but if so, contact me, I have many of the smaller brass-size rivet-hollow-grommets here in my shop! I stocked up!! Removing the orig brass-grommets on the brass escutcheon requires purchasing a hand held "dremmel-tool", and using a very tiny grinding-disc that comes with the dremmel-kit. Harbor Freight also sells their house- brand of a dremmel type hand operated unit for "detail" work at very modest prices! No vintage tube type radio repair shop should be without this very-handy tool and its accessories indeed!! Grind off the orig escutcheon rivets on the "back-side" of the orig brass escutcheon so no "scar marks" show. The dremmel type tools are hand-held, for secure-precise uses in hard to reach areas!! Removing tube socket grommets (when necessary) has never been easier when a big drill doesn't fit! Just trying to be helpful.

Randal - THANK YOU for that suggestion re: the hollow rivets! I would never have thought of looking for them from a dollhouse parts supplier!

Does this store also supply the tool(s) necessary for installing the rivets? I would assume they do?

GREAT assist, Randal. High-five, dude!

Direct link to the page Randal referenced above:

http://www.dollhouseminiatures.com/elect...plies1.htm

We still need a method of clamping these eyelets down so that they fasten to each side.

Hi,
Thanks for the link to the rivets.
Yes, we still need a way to fasten them. Perhaps some sort of die mounted in an old pair of C-clamp type Vice Grips?

Eastwood Co. (auto restoration) used to have special tools made for things like dimpling of sheet metal, or flange making. I haven't checked, but they might have something that would smash down on these rivets evenly.
Take care,
Gary.


Maybe some idea on creating your won 'squeezer' by using these as a pattern?
http://www.hansonrivet.com/w82a.htm

I'm not familiar with the dials in question but I use an F-connector crimp tool for pressing the rivets on regular dialcover/escutcheons.

-Bill

I used to do PC board repair in the navy where I had to replace brass eyelets which look similiar to the dial rivets. If you try to set them with a punch by tapping straight down you'll split them every time. Use a punch and roll the edge down by hand until you can't get it down any further. By rolling I mean put the punch into the rivet and turn it in a circle so the end mushrooms outward. Then you can give it a final set with a punch and a small hammer. I've seen small eyelets in the model airplane section at hobby shops, but I didn't know the dollhouse gang used them also.
Dave

On the dials I had to replace or repair, I've used #4 screws and nuts to replace the rivets without any problems. I think I used 1/4" long screws which gave adequate clearance between the dial and tuning capacitor/cabinet.