All, I just finished recapping and re-resistoring a Philco 610 (late 35). I powered it up last night and quickly determined that the LO isn't working. Does anyone have a chart that has resistance and voltage values for the tube pins or a schematic showing voltages? I'm working off the Nostaligia Aire schematic. Also my dial bulb is missing and the philco part number is 34-2064, can someone tell me what bulb to use?
Thanks,
Keith
Keith
What's LO?
Also please post the link to the sch.
Have you:
1. test all your tubes?
2. measure all your coils for continuity?
34-2064 is a type 44 lamp.
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/lamps.htm
Model 610 is a 1936 model. Beginning with the 1935 season (June 1934), Philco introduced each new model year in June of the preceding calendar year, just as automobile manufacturers used to introduce new cars in September (and still do to some degree, but not always).
I would suggest buying the complete service information for this model from Chuck so that you can have the voltage charts, parts lists, and all known changes.
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm
(03-07-2015, 11:39 AM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: [ -> ]34-2064 is a type 44 lamp.
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/lamps.htm
Model 610 is a 1936 model. Beginning with the 1935 season (June 1934), Philco introduced each new model year in June of the preceding calendar year, just as automobile manufacturers used to introduce new cars in September (and still do to some degree, but not always).
I would suggest buying the complete service information for this model from Chuck so that you can have the voltage charts, parts lists, and all known changes.
http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm
Ron, thanks for the bulb info. Tubes all test good. I hooked up my signal generator to the grid cap of the 6A7 tube and I can pick up lots of stations by changing the frequency on my generator. I'm getting closer to figuring this one out.
Keith
Well, then, it sounds like you have an oscillator issue.
As Mike (morzh) suggested, test the oscillator coil for continuity.
I know that sounds simple but it's pretty crowded in the vicinity of the oscillator transformer and I keep loosing my place on the schematic. To make things worse I always get lost when going through rotary switches. The oscillator transformer has a metal cover, is there an easy way to get this off.
Thanks,
Keith
The pins could be sticking out somewhere, maybe underneath.
Can you jut buzz them?
Here's a helper (how I do it): if you have access to ALL pins of any coil, that are soldered to, EVERY pin should buzz with low Ohms (1 to say 10 Ohms, at this point do not concern yourself with what it should be exactly) to some other pin in the same coil. Keep in mind, old oxidated solder often does not contact well with probes so make sure there is connection, or use needle type probes, those will ensure there is one.
(03-08-2015, 06:54 PM)morzh Wrote: [ -> ]The pins could be sticking out somewhere, maybe underneath.
Can you jut buzz them?
Here's a helper (how I do it): if you have access to ALL pins of any coil, that are soldered to, EVERY pin should buzz with low Ohms (1 to say 10 Ohms, at this point do not concern yourself with what it should be exactly) to some other pin in the same coil. Keep in mind, old oxidated solder often does not contact well with probes so make sure there is connection, or use needle type probes, those will ensure there is one.
Thanks Morzh, My transformer has 5 pins that are soldered to plus two wires that run through the hollow core but I can't see what they're connected to. Of the 5 pins with solder connections 4 out of five have continuity with one of the other pins but one doesn't have continuity with any of the other four but it does have continuity with one of the wires that runs through the core. I have a bad feeling about this. Unfortunately I won't have access to my workshop until next Thursday. If the coil is bad can it be repaired or are replacements available?
Keith
Repaired. Not too bad at all.
In the sch I can see the coil (if we are talking of #8 coil) should have 6 pins. The 2 pin groups having continuity should include 3 pins each.
My number 8 coil has five pins plus a clip to attach it to the chassis. Here's a pic
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/keithvj3...s.jpg.html . Yes, that resistor is pretty ugly, that's my first attempt at making dogbones. I do plan on replacing that micromold that looks original but doesn't match anything on the schematic(it's #14 on the schematic and should be .000225uf).
Keith
Not bad actually. In any case does not look modern
so might pass for old.
Is the clip riveted or screwed? Can the coil be removed when unsoldered?
Those dogbones do take some practice but it looks good for first one!
Your dogbone doesn't look too bad, many of them looked pretty crude anyway. When you get your process refined you should share it with the Phorum.