The PHILCO Phorum

Currently restoring a 37-116, have the following options re: chasis

Replating the surface rusted metal tube shields with

1)Tin 2)nickel 3)silver 4)gold 5)copper 6)Brass

They are originally tin plated, however, even though this would be true to form, it's not the best coating for corrosion protection.

Would one of the other metals diminish the value? Which would you pick?

Also, as I haven't fired it up, is it best to bite the bullet and recap the whole thing (ugh!), try to reform the caps (need to buy/build a high voltage DC supply for this)... reform in circuit or individually? I've read the reforming threads... sounds like some work to do it right... but still easier than recapping the whole unit. The tubes appear to be original, w/o much filament transfer, so I'm hoping they'll fire up eventually

Thanx for any help...

Some pics

[img]h



John L.

Hi

In regard to what to replate the tube shields with, how about the original tin? While it may not be the best for corrosion protection, it's not as if you are going to store your set out in a damp barn after restoration, right?

Now my thoughts on your other choices:

Nickel - Will look very nice...maybe too nice.

Silver - Are you a millionaire or what? Are you kidding me?

Gold - Are you a multi-millionaire or what? Are you kidding me?

Copper - This is a Philco, not a Zenith.

Brass - Ditto.

Yes, you MUST replace ALL of the paper and electrolytic capacitors for safety and reliability. Those 70+ year old electrolytics are already on borrowed time, even IF they will reform. Replace and be done with it.

Should you not heed the warning and apply power without replacing paper and electrolytic caps...you very well MAY fire it up...literally!

Good luck with the set. This is one of the nice ones.

I use "chrome paint" that you pick up at most automotive stores, here is an example of how the chrome paint looks. It depends how "original" you want to be, but replating is on the expensive side and you can get a good look in some cases.

Hi auplater,

I have this same radio. I'd be interested in knowing how you plan to go about restoring the speakers?

Have a look here:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemT...itemID=372

This is a specialty automotive restoration site, but their "Rust Dissolver" is the best non-harmful rust remover I have ever used. It takes a bit longer to soak in this stuff than the directions say, but I used it to de-rust a few of my tube shields with great success. Plus the stuff is non-harmful, and water soluble. Great stuff.

Check out their rust encapsulator paint as well. It's really excellent, and comes in silver color. They have several other metallic paints that are pretty durable and might interest you as well. Cheaper than actually plating the shields:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemI...403&page=2

Thanks Ron...et.als...

Capacitors... somehow I knew you'd say that Not a problem, I've got a lot sitting around... always looking for a cheat if I can get away with it.

On the plating... I've done this for a living for 4 decades (though semi-retired now) plated and electroformed for JPL, NASA, NRAO, etc. microwave plumbing, ink jet nozzles, high energy chemical lasers, etc. (hence the handle "auplater")

I do it myself, so the pricing is "advantaged"

The speaker is in pristine condition... no tears, pulp is in excellent condition, so other than some epoxy to re-glue the edges... not much work there. I'll try to give some "play by play" of the processing. May try a couple of different metals on the shields to see what looks best. Tin may end up the choice, as I'd like to keep it as original as possible.

Post cabinet restore pic...


John L.

You're lucky that your speakers are all ok. 8) Mine are salvageable, but they do need some attention.

May I ask how you went about refinishing the cabinet? It looks very nice! I like the contrasting veneers. Did you stain them yourself? What did you use? And what did you use for a final lacquer? Are you happy with it?

philcobenz Wrote:You're lucky that your speakers are all ok. 8) Mine are salvageable, but they do need some attention.

May I ask how you went about refinishing the cabinet? It looks very nice! I like the contrasting veneers. Did you stain them yourself? What did you use? And what did you use for a final lacquer? Are you happy with it?

Thanks for the look-see...

I decided to take a minimalist approach to this refinish, since the veneer was in great shape, and it had only slight water damage on the top (water rings, crazing) and lacquer loss and crazing on the bottom. Most of the lacquer was intact as well, so I decided to "recondition" it.

Using lacquer thinner, I stripped only the areas with moderate crackling/crazing down to the veneer, using multiple quick passes and 0000 steel wool, trying to blend the edges into the good areas of lacquer as best as possible. I then lightly stained the entire piece with mahogany Minwax diluted 1:1 with turpentine, and wiped down the excess after ~15 minutes, trying to match/enhance the different grains and textures as needed.

After this dried overnite, I applied boiled linseed oil, going heavier on the stripped areas than those with the original finish still intact. I was especially careful around the decals, since they are in good shape and I don't want to re-apply. This was wiped down and reapplied 3 times after 24 hour cure.

I then lightly burnished the whole unit with 0000 steel wool, especially trying to blend the stripped surfaces with the existing lacquer areas. A final layer of oil provided the finish you see, and awaits maybe a paste wax finish if I find the time, although I think I'm done for now. I like working with this oil, as it's less expensive than tung, danish, etc. (all of which I've used) and it seems to restore and enhance the depth and luster of underlying woods and finishes better than most.

I've built speakers for decades, and try to get that deep luster finish whenever possible.

{part of my home theatre system... DIY } <<soryy for the OT




(Feel free to move this post to the cabinet thread if necessary)

John L.

auplater Wrote:, as I'd like to keep it as original as possible.

With a linseed oil finish?

Very interesting, auplater. Thanks for sharing.

What would the original 1937 finish have been, since linseed oil seems not to have been?

The original finish would have been lacquer which is why the comment about originality. lacquer and toning lacquers to even out the color would have been the best approach.

exray Wrote:

auplater Wrote:, as I'd like to keep it as original as possible.

With a linseed oil finish?

I think you've mis-construed my approach. I wanted to get back to as close to the original look without stripping and re-lacquering. Using the approach I took restored the areas of lacquer damage and left the good lacquer areas (most of the cabinet) alone. I was able to match the damaged areas with the toned linseed oil approach. If I decide to strip and re-lacquer in the future, that is an still option, but it looks too good now that I'm unlikely to do that.

BTW, I don't consider re-lacquering with present day finishes any more "original" than the approach I've taken, since the original lacquer formula is most likely lost to antiquity.

John L.

Here's the cabs with the cleaned original fabric re-installed. Kinda hard to photograph, due to the shadows and such.. hence a coupla different angles



John L.

Now that looks nice.

here's the 1st restored tube shield {it's the one on the left ;-)..}


..and here's a different project I've restored to working condition..edison phono.. I may gold plate the stylus arm, as I've seen some that are gold

Hey auplater,

What did you end up using to plate the tube shield with?

As you probably already know, gold toned Edison phonograph parts were gold toned only for certain models - some of the more expensive ones - just as they were for Victor Victrolas.