I know this is a dumb question but what are some of the opinions about the correct wire to use for an antenna. I have numerous Philcos that need a long wire antenna and I'm getting tired of hooking and unhooking my alligator clip test wires to run each one. I would just like to buy a bulk role of wire and make antennas for each one and just leave it at that. Is there a curtain gauge that works the best? Stranded or solid? How long? I've read 10 feet is a good starting point. At some point when we move to the country I want to install a true "long wire" (100+ feet) from the house to a shed or barn and then have a hook up in the house. Any advise would be greatly appreciated!
I don't think that wire gauge matters very much, performance wise. Too fine of a gauge and the wire will become hard to handle. I think mine are 22 gauge. Stranded is more flexible, so is what I use.
I also install an RCA plug at the end of the antenna lead on my radios. Then I have several antenna wires of different lengths that have an RCA jack on one end. Not exactly keeping it original by adding the plug, but it makes it easy to connect/disconnect my radios to an antenna.
Jon
Stranded is fine my solid wires get tangled up and hard to run out at times. I have used most any kind of wire and get results, flexible stranded is fine and easy to roll up when done. I have built insulated antennas of various shapes and used Archer Antenna wire from Radio Shack. Strong, I used springs when conneted to trees or anything that had give and they woul stay up during storms. I have a friend who built a pneumatic antenna launcher, he shoots long wire antennas up into trees, looks like a bazooka, scares the neighbors. Good luck.
Paul
I vote for stranded. I've always felt that bare stranded wire provides more surface area for the wave to be received on. More is better. I soldered an insulated solid wire (22 gauge) to it to bring it in the house. At the terminal end, I soldered it to a distributor from which I run several insulated wires to the sets that need a a little "boost." Works well for me!
+1 on using stranded wire. It is better.
Thin single strand wire can be problematic for several reasons. Plus, remember that the conductivity of wire is directly related to it's cross-sectional area.
For long wire antennas, outdoor ones, I have heard of guys using MIG welding wire, it's steel wire, but plated so it will last a few years at least, and it's cheap! Another option is to use disused coax cable from a cable TV install, usually when you move into a house and have a cable hooked up the first thing the cable installer does is disconnect the old lines make a new run of cable, but the old stuff is still there. Connect the antenna lead to the braided wire shield on the outside of the cable. I've also used left over house wire, I had several coils of 14 gauge single strand and strung some of it outside.
Regards
Arran
I use a copper wire hung in the attic from one side of house to the other. It works great and it was not expensive.
according to my copy of the NEC (1947), for outdoor installations:
3404. (8111) Conductors. Antenna, counterpoise and lead in conductors shall be of hard drawn copper, bronze, copper clad steel, or other high strength, corrosion resistant material. Soft drawn or medium drawn copper may be used for lead in conductors where the maximum span between points of support is less than 35 ft.
3405. (8112) Supports. Outdoor antenna and counterpoise and lead in conductors shall be securely supported. They shall not be attached to poles or similar structures carrying electric light or power wires, or trolly wires of more than 250 volts. Insulators supporting the antenna or counterpoise conductors shall have sufficient mechanical strength to safely support the conductors. Lead in conductors shall be securely attached to the antenna.
3406. (8113) Clearance from Other Conductors. Outdoor antenna, counterpoise and lead in conductors from an antenna to a building shall not cross over electrical light or power circuits and shall be kept well away from all such circuits so as to avoid the possibility of accidental contact. Where proximity to electric light and power service conductors of less than 250 volts cannot be avoided, the installation shall be such as to provide a clearance of not less then 2 ft.
It is recommended that antenna and counterpoise conductors be so installed as not to cross under electrical light or power conductors or trolly conductors.
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3415. (8121) Size of Antenna and Counterpoise. Outdoor antenna and counterpoise conductors for receiving stations shall be of a size not less than given in the accompanying table.
Material Minimum size of conductors when maximum open span is
Less than 35 ft. 35 to 150 ft. Over 150 ft.
Hard drawn copper 19 14 12
Copper clad steel, bronze, or other high strength
material 20 17 14
3416. (8122) Size of Lead In. Lead in conductors from outside antenna and counterpoise for receiving stations shall, for various open span lengths, be of such size as to have a tensile strength at least as great as that of the conductors for antenna as specified in section 3415. When the lead in consists of two or more conductors which are twisted together, or are enclosed in the same covering or are concentric, the conductor size shall for various maximum open span lengths, be such that the tensile strength of the combination will be at least as great as that for the conductors for antenna as specified in section 3415.
..............
3422. (8141) Arrester. Each conductor of a lead in from an outdoor antenna shall be provided with a lightning arrester approved for the purpose, except where the lead in conductors from antenna to entrance to building are protected by a continuous metallic shield which is permanently, and effectively grounded. Lightning arresters shall be located outside the building, or inside the building between the point of entrance of the lead in, and the radio set or transformers, and as near as possible to the entrance of the conductors to the building. The lightning arrester shall not be located near combustible material nor in a hazardous location.
In addition to these things I recommend using a glass insulator at every point where the antenna conductor will be supported so that it does not become shorted to ground in wet weather. I much prefer using stranded wire for outdoor antennas. It is more flexible, and suffers less stress weakening over the years than a single strand wire does. One can use either insulated or non-insulated. For shorter runs, 35 ft. or less I use 16 gauge or 14 gauge, and 14 gauge for 35 ft to 150 ft. I have never put up an antenna longer than 150 ft so far, but would use at least 12 gauge stranded for that.
Are the NEC regs based on durability of construction or based on what kind of wire is the best conductor?
(07-22-2015, 10:26 AM)TA Forbes Wrote: [ -> ]Are the NEC regs based on durability of construction or based on what kind of wire is the best conductor?
It is the National Electrical Code, and is based on safety first, and functionality second. I recommend following it as closely as possible for fire insurance reasons. If you have an improperly installed outdoor antenna, and it is hit by lightning, resulting in a fire, you could have insurance problems. They are also very good from the standpoint of functionality. They also coincide with the FCC rules governing antennae, although those are primarily concerned with transmitting antennae. There are parts of the NEC that pertain to transmitting antennae but I have not included them since here we are concerned with receiving sets.
I found this very interesting site which carries all kinds of antenna equipment. I think it caters largely to hams, but they have what we need too, for our receiving antennae.
http://thewireman.com/antennap.html . Be sure to go to their home page too, and then follow their links to their lightning arresters etc.
Very thorough Mike. Found it in the basement, 14 gauge Archer multi strand, not sure that can be found at the Shack anymore.
Paul