I restored one a couple years ago. One of the Candohm resistors was open so I removed the wire from inside and replaced with high wattage resistors. The handle can be bought online for about $25+ and I believe this is one that uses brass split rivets as fasteners. If not, then it will be fastened with threaded brass studs and nuts. I used a zener diode on the filament string as a safety precaution.
Rod
Welcome to the Phorum!!
I remember something else. The service bulletin states that C304 is omitted. You have to locate that capacitor in the pictorial of the service bulletin because it has been omitted in the schematic, possibly your radio and every where else.
Rod
I bought the last two handles from Wayne Thompson a few weeks ago. There is no other source.
One quick note for those restoring one of these radios. I grabbed the electrolytic can with what I thought was just average pressure and it crumbled in my hand like an eggshell. Seems like very weak or thin metal, beware! I didn't start the restoration on mine yet but when I do, I will be posting in the want adds for one.
Ron
CodeFox,
I know you made a comment a couple of years ago about removing the switch on the Philco 46-350. I am attempting to do the same thing, any suggestions?
I have one of these gems too. My AC line voltage runs around 124 to 125V. I rebuilt the cadohm with a 75 ohm and two 910 ohm 5 watt resistors. I used a little JB weld to attach the resistors. to the cadohm shell. That gives me B+ 84V on the 3Q5 screen (pin 4) and 8.6V on the filaments. Testing with 110VAC gives 73V B+ and 7.3V on the filaments, and the radio plays well.
I also added a 8.7V 5 watt zener between the 9V end of the cadohm and ground to protect the filaments from any voltage surges. Probably overkill, but who knows.
I replaced my leather handle with 1 inch wide chestnut colored leather strap I bought off of Amazon. Same thickness as the original handle, and surprisingly nice leather. I used a Dremel carving bit to slightly elongate the holes so the strap can pull away slightly when the radio is picked up. Take care not to make the slots too long or they will show when the handle is lifted.
Hi all, reviving this old post, hoping to get some input on the leather handle. I can't seem to carefully get the darn handle brass/metal hold-downs off. I have two of these units and the newer code unit has nuts on the inside top, but the one I want to replace doesn't. Someone in a previous post in this thread said "I believe this is one that uses brass split rivets as fasteners. If not, then it will be fastened with threaded brass studs and nuts."
If mine has the brass split rivets, how do you pop off the left and right strap hold downs without damaging the wood?
I have a leather saddle maker currently making up some new handles for both units. Just trying not to bunger up the wood getting the strap hold-downs off.
Any tips? Thanks
George
Well I figured this out and it was easier than expected. On my unit, turned out the internal antenna perfectly covered 2 screws on each side that held the handle hold-downs in place. Pretty obvious once I carefully pulled back the antenna. I was concerned about damaging the antenna so was reluctant to pull it back. But by removing all the small nails holding it in place, I could slide it front to back carefully and remove the screws to release the handle hold-downs, allowing me to replace the handle. Seems pretty clear now that I know, just figured I would post this update in case someone else struggles with it in the future.