The PHILCO Phorum

Full Version: Working on repro Philco brass capacitor cans
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So I was at Home depot and decided to ge some supplies to try making capacitor cans for my 70. The copper ones that are laways missing.
I forgot the copper paint so I used hammered and there are a few tweeks I have to make but here is the result of my first try. I see that the cap top needs to be longer, Bottom black piece needs to be shorter, groove needs to be more defined but anything else?

What do you think?
Good replacement for the missing ones?
I reckon nobody even in a museum will measure overall length, and even if so, probably wasn't recorded. If you are stuffing old ones and need to cut 'em open to get the guts out, fine saw around the bottom, smoke or burn out insides (definitely an outside the house job!) and some nice joining with epoxy and perhaps a touch of paint after buffing seam, and it'd take an expert to tell (present company excepted.) Actually a little length of sliced off silver duct tape with a dot of crazy glue upon the final wind would please almost anyone. Staple or affix a little note as to when and what you have done inside the set so the next person.................
kirk
 aside from crappy paint Icon_thumbdown
instead of punching holes.  drill them
I believe they sell plastic threaded rods too
  
What Sam said. If copper pipe is used, why even paint.
No bad for first try.
Thanks guys,
There is no copper at the correct size for it to work.
I had to use plastic pipe. The top is the hardest part as there is no way to make one except for molded plastic.
The color must go but I need to get a lathe to make it correctly. I rushed the holes but drilling will not work on the plastic.
I think they sell threaded black pipe for irrigation so I will check.
I'll hit the depot on Monday.

Me
If you have a drill.press you could probably use it instead of a lathe for this. Just attach it , make it spin an d use a file to make the indentation you want.on the bottom. It will be straight a d as wide as you want. Alzo, not sure why you can't drill holes in the plastic. The drill press should do that too. Night need a little drill press vise to hold the pipe though. Even if you had to buy a bench top drill.press, is much cheaper than a lathe.
Here is a radical idea....make a real drawing of a real Mershon, send to a shop in China and order a real copper part. For a few hundred raccoon skins you can have a totally great result.
If you would like to try using copper foil instead of paint drop me a note with your street address and I will be glad to send a couple of feet the stuff is 8 or 10 inches wide. David
I am not sure how copper foil will work. First there will be a seam. And if there is a wrinkle, good luck trying to smooth it out.
kirk
stick with pvc pipe
you can make a vice with your clamps
or buy cheep on at harbor freight
you can put a drill in vice and use it to be a lath
use sharp tool to make rings in it too
good luck keep us posted Icon_thumbup
Foil?
Never thought of that.......
I would want these strong so foil might not do it. I do thank you for the kind offer though.
I dont have my vice set up in the shop yet so I will have to get to some things before I can actually work on the cans.

Me
Ok so I went to a specialty supply house and ordered some pieces of pipe and ends. Then I got the rest locally so minus the indent, How is this?
Looks pretty good Kirk!
Looks a lot nicer... Good Job. Now put it the "makeshift" lathe and spin it, use a file to make the indentation mark while it is turning. Of course don't file to far in or you go through it, depending on how thick the wall is.
Looks great kirk
Up to me It is fine with out ring 
did you pic up a nut to fit threads 
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