The PHILCO Phorum

I have a philco 18 code 121 that i would like to see working one day. I started some research on what to do and it seemed to be going fine. Well the more i learn the worse it seems to get. I'm not good with electronics but i can make most things work. If there is someone that has some time to answer questions to help me i would appreciate it. I will warn you I might have a lot of questions and i probable won t understand a lot of your answer......I started with elect. caps (except for #40 caps )I checked 80 rectifier and got F-F =6.3 P-K N/A (measurements up and down) then replaced #40 E caps and ....F-F = 4.9 P-K= 32mV....I used to hear a little static and some up and down waves when tuning ....now nothing. Any ideas or help?...........................................PS :THIS IS MY FIRST PHORUM still having some time with finding things.


THANKS KEN

 I don't own a Philco model 18 but own it's successor model a Canadian 3118. For starters do NOT power up the set with the speaker unplugged, unlike most sets leaving the speaker unplugged does not disconnect all the of the chassis from the B+ supply and can overvolt and BBQ some components. As to why the set does not play, replacing the filter caps is only the first step, all of the insides of those black Bakelite blocks need to be replaced as well, and many of the resistors will need replacing as well. Just take it one step at a time.
Regards
Arran

What Arran said. I have an 18 console I restored some 3 years ago......


If you want to cut corners....well I hope you have a home insurance that covers fires.
Otherwise you will need lots of patience and some one who can test your tubes.
I suggest you find the local antique radio club, they will help.

Welcome to the Phorum!  
Take a deep breath....go slowly...you can do this.
I don't see a schematic for an 18 code 121 on Nostslgiaair.com and the code 124 schematic is tough to read.  This will make it a little more difficult to help but there are lots of generic things to pay attention to.  As the guys earlier said, you will need to replace all the electrolytic and paper caps.  Arran mentioned bakelite block caps.  You'll find help for those here and here.  Be certain you have the polarity of the electrolytic caps correct.  Check resistors to see if the need replacing.  Check transformer windings and all coils for continuity. Check tubes. 32 mv across the rectifier plates is way too low so something is amiss.

Go slow and methodically, ask questions as you go and post pics if needed.  Lots of folks to help you.  Here's a good first read for beginners.  If you haven't already done so, a good source for schematics and documentation is here :  http://www.philcorepairbench.com/schematics.htm

Thanks for getting back with me Arran and Morzh. I read a lot of Pithicus's phorum and saw how much you two helped him. I was really surprised to see both of you responded to me...... kinda like celebraties.
I do have good fire insurance but as for health insurance not as good LOL. As for replacing the Bakelite, is it better to tear them apart or just by new ones? What's your suggestion? For testing the tubes, I will try to find someone, however I live in a very rural area with nothing around. So finding help around here will be very hard. As for replacing the electro. cap I have an extra one that is not on the schematic and I haven't seen this one on anyone else's videos. It hooks on the #57 Bakelite to the #49 wire wound 6,500 resistor. Do I replace it or delete it? Not sure why it's there. I do have the pdf schematic for the 18 121 if anyone needs it. Thanks for the warning about the speaker, I did know that from your other phorum threads, but it's nice to know you're looking out for me.
Thanks!
Ken

If you post the 18 code 121 schematic as an attachment, I think it will help folks with your questions.

(11-01-2015, 11:06 AM)laipplyken Wrote: [ -> ]Thanks for getting back with me Arran and Morzh. I read a lot of Pithicus's phorum and saw how much you two helped him. I was really surprised to see both of you responded to me...... kinda like celebraties.
    I do have good fire insurance but as for health insurance not as good LOL. As for replacing the Bakelite, is it better to tear them apart or just by new ones? What's your suggestion? For testing the tubes, I will try to find someone, however I live in a very rural area with nothing around. So finding help around here will be very hard. As for replacing the electro. cap I have an extra one that is not on the schematic and I haven't seen this one on anyone else's videos. It hooks on the #57 Bakelite to the #49 wire wound 6,500 resistor. Do I replace it or delete it? Not sure why it's there. I do have the pdf schematic for the 18 121 if anyone needs it. Thanks for the warning about the speaker, I did know that from your other phorum threads, but it's nice to know you're looking out for me.
Thanks!
Ken

Hello Ken, welcome to the phorum.
If you could post a link to the schematic we can all follow along since NosAir does not have a code 121.Right now i am
working on a 16 and I am having to use 2 schematics and changes because some parts are on one set and not on the other.So my take is that do not delete any parts just because you don't see it. ( Sorry klondike98 was typing while you were posting)

Hi Ken and welcome!
Remove the 80 tube and measure the AC voltage from pin 2 to pin 3. These are the two smaller pins on the socket. Be careful as if it's working you will see about 600-700vac there. Set must be on to measure the ac voltage.

Terry

best bet is to order schematics from chuck schwark


note scanner stopped working will post

sam

well I can`t look at it when I click on link my display driver crashes my lap top
but I can look at my own and others from photobucket ?

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=9107


This is what you do with backelite caps. If you simply want to replace them with yellow caps many of us will gladly release you of your unneeded backelite

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=23

Here are many helpful topics.

the #57 bakelite block is the line by-pass filter and contains twin 0.015uF caps. They need to be replaced, preferably with two 0.015uF Y2 safety caps. See this info on safety caps. I suspect the cap you see tacked onto this block was an older repair but I could be wrong so make a note of it and where its located so you can replace it if necessary. Got a picture of it? By the way a good practice is to take lots of photos as you work on the radio. That way you can refer to them as you go along and replace components. Take more photos than you think you need to especially since this is your first dance. You always find that you just can't quite see what you want to see on the picture when your trying to put the radio back together

I'd restuff the bakelite blocks, its not that difficult.

well see if this one works.......18 code 121 ....let me know if you can see this pic and if it is clear enough.



http://s1380.photobucket.com/user/laippl...sort=3&o=0

(11-01-2015, 12:06 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ]Hi Ken and welcome!
Remove the 80 tube and measure the AC voltage from pin 2 to pin 3. These are the two smaller pins on the socket. Be careful as if it's working you will see about 600-700vac there. Set must be on to measure the ac voltage.

Terry

I'll let you know as soon as i get the caps and resisters back in.

                                          
Ken

I was able to download you schematic image as read it on my PC.