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I'm looking at this Philco 19 cathedral, and it looks to me like the AC line goes to the line filters and on to the power transformer. From there, it seems to go to an on/off switch mounted on the band switch? The volume pot doesn't have a switch on it at all. Looking at the schematic, the volume pot is where I expected to see the on/off switch.

On a side note, the volume pot is seriously stiff. I took it apart and cleaned it up, but it is still stiff. Again, no on/off switch.

NOTE: never mind. I should have known Ron had this information on the site. Thanks Ron. http://www.philcoradio.com/tech/19evol.htm

http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013151.pdf
Also, I get resistance on the shadow meter winding around 1K ohm (just under). Is that a good sign?
I have not worked on a shadow meter but Chuck has some useful information on the Philco Repair Bench site.
(02-27-2016, 12:28 PM)ccomer1955 Wrote: [ -> ]Also, I get resistance on the shadow meter winding around 1K ohm (just under). Is that a good sign?

I think any continuity on the shadow meter is a good sign.  I tested the shadow meter on my Philco 19 by briefly touching a 9v battery across it.  You should notice the little vane deflect. It may be hard to see it. But you probably will hear it move.

Mark K8KZ
1. 1000 feet of #40 gauge enameled copper wire will be needed to rewind the coil in the Shadow Meter assembly. It just so happens that #40 gauge wire has a resistance of about 1.1 ohms per foot. So in a typical radio, a current draw of 10ma. will give the 10 volt drop across the coil that it takes to operate the shadow vane correctly.
The above is a quote from the philco service hint & tips


Charlie if your getting 1000 ohm reading you should be good to go. The 9v test to see if the vane is deflecting as Mark said, is a good idea to make sure it is not stuck.
Great news. The rest is just digging out the Bakelite boxes and tracing the schematic. I've seen a couple of things I want to check out...like a place where something like three dogbone resistors are soldered together suspended on nothing, but except for the electrolytic caps, it looks original.

The cabinet is another story, though. Some serious veneer splitting on the bottom of the front panel and a six inch wide section of veneer on the left side is gone, so I'm going to have to match in a new section there. Anyway, the fun starts soon.