Hi Guy's
Was looking at Greg's post Philco Aglow and thought it wound be nice to post some pics of my 660L dial. The dial on it is printed backward cause it's below the knobs. To do this all I'd have to do is put a new cord on it and pull the 80 tube out. I've had the set for awhile but haven't done anything to it since I got it up in MA years ago.
Affixed a new cord on it, old one had no prongs on it so couldn't use the old plug. Removed the escutcheon and cleaned it and the dial. Pulled the 80 and put power to it. Was disappointing in that the dial didn't light up very much at all, could just about see the pointer the rest dark. So I thought I'd pull the chassis check the bulbs and see why it was dim.
Now this thing is set up like a chairside in that the chassis is mounted vertically with 3 long 1/4 bolts. If you ever have to take one apart remove the spkr first I didn't. If you don't you can easily smash the dial and shadowmeter. Fortunitly I didn't but it was a close call.
Got it out ok without smashing the dial or fingers I found that the dial and lamps are really filthy, think a good cleaning is in order. This should brighten up the dial.
Was going to work on the 41-300 next but now I've got it somewhat apart and it's a bit of a pain to get back into the cabinet it just moved up to 1st place.
Will start with measuring some resistances of the output trans,field coil, filter choke, driver trans,shadowmeter, and bleeder resistor. The chassis is very similar to the 116B & 116X. Pics to follow...
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel...013828.pdf
Terry
I like! I like!
Very nice set Terry...
Me
Awesome radio! Looks like you'll have lots of fun.
(06-18-2016, 07:33 PM)OldRestorer Wrote: [ -> ]I like! I like!
Very nice set Terry...
Me
You might be seeing in person some time!!
Terry
Dont eve think about it,
If it comes here I will restore the cabinet but i'm keeping it
Thieving me
Popped off the dial to see how I could get it cleaner. Gave it a good scrubbing w/OMS and a lot of dirt came off but Ron was right in that the dial material has darken over the years. It also has something on it that doesn't particularly want to come very easily. It maybe some sort of mold or something. It leaves the dial spotty looking on an angle and feels rough. Can scrape with my fingernail but I don't want to remove the graphics in the process. Straight on it looks ok so I'll leave it. Need to take good care of this dial, don't think any repros are available! Gallery sez less than 1000 660/665L's where sold. Can't imagine why. Only seen 1 other on the web.
Under the chassis it originally had a heavy perforated cardboard cover, mine is missing.Kinda handy it missing as it gives you a pretty non obstructed access to the chassis innards just by moving the cabinet away from the wall. Chassis looks pretty unmolested but I can fix that!!!!! Looks like it was around when the house was being renovated back in '13-14 (really dusty inside).
Onward to the ohm meter!!!
Terry
Less than a thousand made definitely rare. In have ran into the same thing on the dial scale that you have and ended up just leaving it alone. Looks like the underside of the chassis is good candidate for air nozzle to start. Should be a fun restoration.
Methinks it's going to meet Mr Eletrolux! Checked out the iron and bleeder resistor and all passed! Couldn't quite get to the shadow coil yet.
Terry
Spent some time rebuilding the three electrolytic cans. Six caps all together. Won't bore you with pics. Got them all part and back together again. Reinstalled and started cleaning the under side a bit and found this:
[
attachment=10547]
What you are looking at is one of the 42 audio output tube sockets. Look closely and you'll see a black trench between pins 1 and 2. Pin 1 is the heater and 2 is the plate (read pin 1 is at ground potential and pin 2 is at HV with lots of HV AC spikes from the audio signal). What has been going on is that it has been arcing between these two pin and burned the socket. Once the socket has been chard like this the burned area has turned to carbon, Guess what resistor are made of?? The carbon causes more burning of the socket.
Will made a lot of noise because it's arcing/shorting the HV though the output transformer. The transformer doesn't like it so much either. Socket is going to go, luckily I just carried a junk 84 chassis out to the garage which has a good 42 socket.
Terry
So out to the garage and grabbed the 84 chassis. Yielded a good 6 pin socket. Unsoldered the one in the 660 only to find I unsoldered the wrong one Dang it!!! Resolder wrong socket unsolder right socket, drill out rivets. Only to find that the hole spacing is a little off, about an 1/8". Elongate holes in socket to fit chassis holes. Used nylon screws and nuts to attach cuz I had them. Solder all connections and it's done for today.
Terry
Found #47 which is the resistor that is in parallel with the shadowmeter coil. It's 2000 ohms and the coil is 1400 ohms I think, so total resistance should be about 825 ohms. The good news is that 47 is just dandy just right at 2000! But the coil is open.
Terry
Started to test the tubes and found that the 3-42's and the 75 where in good shape, 3 of the 78's weren't and the 77 was nothing brag about either. The rf amp tube 78 was replaced with a 77, it will work but it screws with the avc voltage as they have a different grid cutoff voltage. Found some better 78's and a new 77. Got to put 78's on my Ktown list.
Spun the chassis around to have a look at the dial mask and cap drive system. One of the reasons the dial was dim was:
[
attachment=10548] That's the front of the dial lamp.
Got the setscrew for the lower pulley(bandswitch) but the setscrew behind the dial is stuck tight, it's soaking in PB Blaster. Need to get all that part because fine tuning slips and it's gross/dirty.
Here's a few pics of the under side with the e caps rebuilt and the 42 socket replaced. Looks a little tidier as there where some old repairs (connecting new caps across the old) that are gone now.
Am waiting on an order from Sal's to come in with needed mylars. Should be here soon. Then I'll start on the Bakelite caps and resistors.
Terry
Finally got the set screw out that holds the dial to the tuning cap. Twisted the tips of 2 drivers but got it. Man it was tight, squeaking as I turned it outward. Took the rest apart and cleaned it up. The reduction drive is pretty worn it feels a bit rough, cleaned it and added a bit of grease but is still a little rough. Also found that the dial lamp was the wrong one it uses a brighter bulb and the bulb in the shadowmeter is bad. Both the band mask and arrow mask were filthy! Placed an order for the bulbs as I'm out of #46 and 55's
Got it put back together.
Terry