Enjoying my new radio, I have run across the issue of the lighted deflector material doesnt rotate. Broken dial string. I dont know if there is a spring for tension on the cord and I dont know how its routed around the switch shaft. I still have the metal piece that both ends of the cord somehow attatch to but this all was broke when I got it. STill hunting for a picture of the intact cord installation.
yes that does......I need to know how to find that tech section. betting Im missing a spring that goes in between the shaft knob metal piece and the dial cord metal piece......the dial cord is still attatched to the band selector but broke down on the selector shaft.
Oh thats why
I was looking for that on this site.
If you have the old cord remove it and use get the proper size for the new one. Knot the ends together making a loop. I didn't use the metal ends just a little super glue on the knot.This is the same setup on as my 660 and just did it the other day. The screw that goes though the tuning cap shaft was a real bear to get loose, broke two screwdrivers but did prevail and got it apart. You maybe able to use a spring from a ball point pen, the original is a bit stronger but about the same size.
Terry
yep sure enough Im missing the cord spring. hunting for replacement.
My shaft is bent upwards that the knob fits on. Has anybody bent it back. Its bent at the large U part of the bracket assembly. The either pot metal or aluminum. Im not sure if I should attempt to bend it back.
I had contemplated a pen spring also. I need the spring, a way to bend down the shaft knob and new dial cord. I have smaller stuff but cant find it yet. The proper size dial string is huge. All it does it rotate the light deflection phenolic. Doesnt seem to have much load on it.
I used just regular size cord. I think it's .025". You maybe able to find a stronger spring at the hardware in one of those cabinets with the small parts in them.
Terry
(07-04-2016, 12:10 AM)quartermilecamel Wrote: [ -> ]My shaft is bent upwards that the knob fits on. Has anybody bent it back. Its bent at the large U part of the bracket assembly. The either pot metal or aluminum. Im not sure if I should attempt to bend it back.
Pot metal is typically very brittle. I wouldn't try to bent it. It's not aluminum.
Terry
I noticed that you posted or another thread that you replaced the 2- 8uf filter cap. Be careful #103 has a 8uf and 10uf cap inside but the 10uf cap has the + side connected the the chassis and 8uf cap has the + side hooked to the hv. Schematic doesn't show the polarity.
There also a three cap can with a 1,2and3uf electrolytic in the hv circuit. Value isn't very critical I used some 4.7uf @450v for all of them.
GL
Terry
correct, I replaced the two 8 uf caps that had 16 uf caps(aerovox) installed in place by previous owner. I used the same wires, and substituted 10 uf caps. Maybe I should test polarity to be sure next time I fire it up. I did see the original 8 and 10 uf cap can in an under chassis picture on here somewhere. Guessing that the stray 8 uf cap still in place(dry electrolytic) is to replace the missing 10 original uf cap? I havnt looked to see where its electrically connected in the schematic yet.
The only problem now with the set is when I power it on, I hear faint mild hissing garbled sound for a bit. Havnt yet replaced any of the bakelite caps yet either so that could be very the garbly hiss sound on fire up.
Right now Im trying to figure out how to tie the proper length dial cord. Not sure how much the spring and metal slider bracket will compensate for slack. I didnt have proper size but I used 4 strands of smaller cord quadrupled up. Pretty close to original
(07-04-2016, 07:53 PM)quartermilecamel Wrote: [ -> ]correct, I replaced the two 8 uf caps that had 16 uf caps(aerovox) installed in place by previous owner. I used the same wires, and substituted 10 uf caps. Maybe I should test polarity to be sure next time I fire it up. I did see the original 8 and 10 uf cap can in an under chassis picture on here somewhere. Guessing that the stray 8 uf cap still in place(dry electrolytic) is to replace the missing 10 original uf cap? I havnt looked to see where its electrically connected in the schematic yet.
The only problem now with the set is when I power it on, I hear faint mild hissing garbled sound for a bit. Havnt yet replaced any of the bakelite caps yet either so that could be very the garbly hiss sound on fire up.
Right now Im trying to figure out how to tie the proper length dial cord. Not sure how much the spring and metal slider bracket will compensate for slack. I didnt have proper size but I used 4 strands of smaller cord quadrupled up. Pretty close to original
>Maybe I should test polarity to be sure next time I fire it up
If either one of the two 8uf caps where in backwards they'd explode so your probably ok there. If the 10uf (bias filter) was in backwards it would probably short out the -bias voltage going to the 6A3 grids. The way the two cans are set up one has just one terminal which is the positive side of one of the 8uf caps. The other one has two terminals one is the other positive side of the second 8uf and the other terminal is negative side of the 10uf cap. the positive side is connected to the shell with the negative of the 8uf. The reason I mentioned it is that it's not very common the have the negative connection with it's own post on the bottom of a cap. Just about all the time there all positives.
Terry
I have managed to use a pen spring, 4 strands of dial cord, and, Rubber cement. Now, the only thing I need is the washer I lost. My dial light band moves once again.
Agreed on the cap wiring. I probably might have wired the 10 in backwards had you not said that. I have just looked and the 10uf cap that seems to be replaced by an 8uf dry cap, the + looks like its tied to chassis ground. Side of cap says besco made in usa. The other end of it is soldered to a really long crimped resistor with 4 lugs on it secured to the side of chassis. Im not really sure this cap is supposed to be there yet. I have a photo of underside but forgot where to load the picture. I just checked polarity on it. Positive side is tied to chassis. There is about 68 volts on it. Going to replace it with a 10uf.
Just looked at schematic, it does seem to be said 10uf cap, minus 2 micro farads
Just started recapping bakelight blocks. Not sure which ways easier, unsolder them or lift them with foil shield and heat. Problem is I have a military version of a heat gun. Bought it from the onbase auction. Settings on it are just air with no heat or other setting. Melt anyting in its path.
Next in the capping saga is bakelite cap #102. Wired inbetween the two 8mfd caps. The outside of it looks like the tar from inside of it has melted and coated it. Can these caps do this and get hot if they short?