This is my first Philco restoration. I have done other makes.
The rust on this chassis was slightly beyond surface rust, but I did not want to do a "frame off", because I didn't feel that in the grand scheme of things, that it was justified. I decided on a trial method and tested it.[
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My method seemed to work, so I went with it. I used cola to dissolve the rust and small wire brushes. After the rust was brushed as clean as practical, I polished with aluminum foil.[
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Finally, I finished with metallic wax.[
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Now that the chassis is clean and shiny, I can start the recap and other chassis repairs!
More to come.
Looks clean. What did you use or do?
(08-14-2016, 08:00 PM)morzh Wrote: [ -> ]Looks clean. What did you use or do?
Has that wire wheel on a drill look about it.
(08-14-2016, 08:39 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ] (08-14-2016, 08:00 PM)morzh Wrote: [ -> ]Looks clean. What did you use or do?
Has that wire wheel on a drill look about it.
That is the way the wax polishes out. I can remove it partially, or totally and rework the look.
A lot of what you see is the camera effect. In real life, it is shiny, but still has that "antique" finish.
To me, it is better than spray paint, but not as good as re-plating.
I used the little toothbrush size brushes that come in a three pack at homerepo to get the rust off.
Metallic Wax,,,,is it a plaste or spray can,,,never heard of it,,,,,shellac or clear???
One day I was watching arts and crafts girls on tee vee and they were shining stuff up and I did not understand what they were using. My Dad used to use stuff like gold leaf paste on picture frames, but I did not know where to buy it.
So, off I go to the arts/crafts/picture frame type store and look around. This is what I bought.[
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Applying it is easy. One could, if one wanted, use their finger. A little goes a very long way. The little tube could do a hundred chassis. It does not wear off, but can be removed with mineral spirits. Kind of like cheating, but hey, I'm not out to out do anyone. Just another way to skin a cat.
Oh, it must be buffed, just like waxing the car
(08-15-2016, 08:17 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ]https://www.amaco.com/t/mixed-media/meta...rub-n-buff
Interesting. Sort of covering up the rust w/wax.
Yes, and no. It is best to remove and kill the rust, and smooth the surface first. The cola has phosphoric acid and citric acid in it. It is not as strong as commercial preparations that you may want to use on a rusted automobile body, but it does contain the needed chemicals. The citric acid helps dissolve the rust, and the phosphoric acid "converts" the rust to"black." Buffing with aluminum foil helps, oddly enough. It helps smooth the surface, and there is an unknown (at least to me) reaction that "finishes" the process. "Phinishes" it I mean. The real key is the PHosPhoric acid...........
Oh yes, I almost forgot. Always remove any bits of aluminum foil that may get left behind!
I rinse with denatured alcohol and wipe dry before waxing. It helps get the the trimmers clean, too.
There was a thread a little while ago about using vinegar to remove rust too.
(08-15-2016, 08:59 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ]There was a thread a little while ago about using vinegar to remove rust too.
If I remember correctly, vinegar is acetic acid. Yes, that works. The real answer to abating rust is to convert it to an inert substance. The black stuff that phosphoric acid leaves behind is iron phosphate. Iron phosphate effectively protects the steel underneath. It can be primed and painted, and I suppose, waxed.
For your next one consider Autosol metal polish. Developed by the Germans in the 50s I think. Best stuff ever for this sort of work. I use it on my woodworking hand tools. Cleans up table tops, jointer beds and hand planes real well. It work wonders on these types of rusted chassis.