The PHILCO Phorum

For prior general discussion of this piece, see this thread:

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=16598

Here will be the documentation of the electronic restoration.
I'm going to start with the chassis, and then move on to the record player.
This will take some time. I will chip away at it around other projects and jobs.

Initial inspection:

I pulled the chassis, and took it outside and hit it with a can of air, and a soft bristled paint brush to get the dust off.

1st thing I did was check the tubes. 1 or 2 tested low, and 1 was completely dead. Care to guess which one



Overall, the chassis is in near original condition. Dial looks good.  





The original fiber board bottom panel is still attached and in remarkable condition



And under the chassis looks to be in good condition. I know the on-off-volume pot has been replaced, as well as at least one of the can electrolytics. Maybe a handful of film caps are not original.








Next, I'll take inventory of parts I may need and put in an order.

I started the process of re-capping the chassis.
A some questions I hope someone can answer.

1. I found a film cap not in the parts list: 30-4334-S. I can't find it in the Philco Parts value listings. Anyone know what value it could be?

2. A multi electrolytic can has 4 caps: 1, 3, 2, 1ufd. I have 2.2ufd, and a 4.7ufd. Can I use the 2.2 in place of the 1's, and the 4.7 in place of the 3 without going too out of spec?

3. Looking over the schematic, I can find all but 1 of the electrolytics. I can't seem to find the 3uf from the 4-section can (C83). Is it possible it wasn't used?

I don't want to rummage through the sch no as those on Rider's are hard to read sometimes, but as the electrolytics go, you should try to stick to the value only for the first cap, the one filtering the rect tube, and use one with good ripple rating, or even go to a film cap, the rest can have their values increased by the factor of 2+ without any ill effects. Usually.

I believe it is probably the unlabeled 3uF cap circled here:

(schematic from Ron's annotated schematics in the Tech Section, with the circles added)

The 30-4334 I believe is .004. At least that's what this thread mentioned.
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...hp?t=34242
Looks like a nice rust free chassis you have there. Should make an excellent restoration.

(07-15-2017, 09:44 AM)klondike98 Wrote: [ -> ]I believe it is probably the unlabeled 3uF cap circled here:

(schematic from Ron's annotated schematics in the Tech Section, with the circles added)

THERE it is! Thank you! Sometimes another set of eyes helps. Thanks!

The caps in #83 are not particularly critical in terms of capacitance. What Mike was referring to is the filters in the power supply(#103 and 104), these are decoupling. Have used 4.7mf for these in my 660L and 116B and have no issues. Interesting that the 116X I thought I saw the same capacitor p# for both sets.

GL

Actually just 103, 104 is less critical in value though still might use better than average ripple rating.

On my 116B I used a 22mf for the input cap and it boosted the B+ up about 50v. Since I had already had restuffed the can rather than taking it back apart (it's kinda tight and was using my Weller w/the short tip) I elected to put another 22 in series w/it behind the shield for the power resistor making 11mf vs 8mf. Brought the B+ down to a bit more reasonable level.

My rule is - 20% is allowed as it is caps tolerance anyway.

(07-15-2017, 09:52 AM)KCMike Wrote: [ -> ]The 30-4334 I believe is .004. At least that's what this thread mentioned.
http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/view...hp?t=34242
Looks like a nice rust free chassis you have there. Should make an excellent restoration.

Thank you!

(07-15-2017, 12:17 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ]The caps in #83 are not particularly critical in terms of capacitance. What Mike was referring to is the filters in the power supply(#103 and 104), these are decoupling. Have used 4.7mf for these in my 660L and 116B and have no issues. Interesting that the 116X  I thought I saw the same capacitor p# for both sets.

GL

Terry,
Thanks. I was aware that the power supply filter caps should be as close to original as possible. Those call for 8, 8, and 10. I have 3x 10ufd @ 450v I was going to throw in there. I think that will be close enough. For the 3, I'll use the 4.7, and for the 2 and 2x1s, I'll just use 2.2ufd.

That should be fine.

Tubular film caps are replaced. I've started working on the Black bakelite caps. C6 went OK. C85 has had work done around it. One end is completely disconnected (The end with R86 and C85 is not connected.)