I could use a little help guys,trying to figure out what I have here. What is the best way to tell ?
Someone was under the hood B4 me,cross checking between schematics. Would a chassis # do it or ?
Chassis # is P75587
Some lytics have been changed,resistors not shown on schematic. Grrrrrrr
Sorry Morzh, I thought since the cabinets are identical and also 8 tubes even transformers same part #,that maybe
some other item would be a tip off. If the chassis # won't fly, I'll have to take some pics and post them.
Under the hood they look pretty much the same from the manual. Have a look at the tone control if it has 1 wire coming on of it it's a 118 2 and it's a 18.
GL
Also, another more obvious way to tell:
Look at the dial scale.
If the dial shows two bands, one being the AM band and the other being 4.2 to 12 mc (MHz), then it is a 118.
If the dial shows the AM band plus smaller numbers above the AM frequencies, from 1.5 to 4 mc (MHz), then it is an 18 from 1933-34.
If the dial shows only the AM band, nothing else, then it is an 18 from the 1935 season.
It's a 118 all things check out,dial and tone control,also bakelite cap #s Thanks fella's Ron and Radioroslyn.
Now have to try to figure out the hacked in lytics and also hacked By pass condenser,supposed to be 3- 1uf and 1-2uf
some one scabbed in a dual section 20-20 uf.
The value for those bypass caps isn't particularly critical. Just for convenience I've used 4.7mf at 450dc to replace the ones in several of my large chassis Philco's. 10's or 20's are ok as they are invisible once they are charged up.
When working properly should have a good sounding set as it has the super class A push/pull triode connected 42 tubes. Good for 10w of clean audio. You my want to have a look at the interstage transformer between the 42 driver tube and the pair of 42 outputs. Not unusual for it to have an open secondary or primary.
OBTW Happy Birthday!
Thanks for the tips RR.
