The PHILCO Phorum

Thanks for your help.
I will study this tonight and let you know.
Thanks again,
murf

Wired it tonight and now have a good buzz if I touch the grid cap on the 6F5 tube.
But no reception.
Both 6F6 tubes getting hot as they should.
Onto the next issue.
Thanks Arran.
Murf

Hello guy's,
Well, now that I have audio, all I need is to pick up a signal.
Did check voltage on both 6F6 tubes tonight and it checks 250v on both tubes with variac set at 90%.
[i]Touch grid cap on 6F5 tube and have a good loud buzz.
Hope I don,t have an open coil somewhere.
murf

Any suggestions as to where to start on the IF/RF section?
Looking for some kind of signal.
Don't have a signal generator, which I should think about getting.
murf

>Don't have a signal generator, which I should get one.
Sounds like a plan !
Get one and we'll talk.

What would you suggest for an inexpensive, easy to use signal generator?
Geese, now I have to learn how to use one of those contraptions.
Murf

eBay has tons of those.

What would the required specs.
I see lots of different prices and different specs.
Not sure what I need.
murf

I would ohm out the windings on the If transformers, see if one side is open on either of them, you don't need a signal generator for that. One thing to watch for are flaky leads on the grid caps, that can cause problems.
Regards
Arran

Guess that would involve removing the cans to get to the coils.
Maybe when I finish up the Philco I am re-capping now.
Will also try cleaning the grid caps as well.
Thanks Arran.
Murf

(04-03-2018, 04:58 PM)murf Wrote: [ -> ]What would you suggest for an inexpensive, easy to use signal generator?
Geese, now I have to learn how to use one of those contraptions.
Murf

It is not so bad. Take a look at this thread:

http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=15799

It's not that hard to check the IF cans, you just need to trace out where the leads go from the schematic, if you are lucky the IF can will have terminals on the base rather then just wire leads coming out the bottom. There isn't really a need to remove the metal can to ohm out the coils, though there will be if one side appears to be open circuit. There is a grid lead that normally comes out of the top of one of the IF cans which will go to the grid cap of the 6K7 tube, usually connected to the secondary of the first IF can, the primary of the second IF can will be connected to the plate of the 6K7 tube at one end, and to the B+ on the other end. I was suggesting checking the grid cap leads as the wires tend to break internally after a time from the clips being removed and replaced from the grid caps of the tubes, the heat of the tubes can also cause the solder joints to fail on the clip end, sometimes the grid caps themselves will do this though it's less common on a metal tube then on a glass type. One time I had a radio that refused to work properly, and it turned out that I accidentally mixed up the grid cap leads on two of the tubes because they were right next to each other, I swapped them back and the radio roared to life.
Regards
Arran

https://images.craigslist.org/00S0S_cAyF...00x450.jpg

Looks like mine has at least 3 leads coming thru the chassis from each IF can.
Do have a backup plan if I can't get this one working.
A fellow enthusiast offered me another chassis and speaker.
His is the Colonial chassis and mine is the Stewart Warner chassis.
Only noticeable difference is that my bandswitch is centered on the dial where as the Colonial has it offset to the right.
Same configuration, so it will just slip right in.
Would still like to get this S.W. chassis going though.
Hard to diagnose problems without the expertise and equiptment that you guy's have.
Still just a fun hobby for me.
murf
murf

Back on the Silvertone.
New issue tonight.
Appears the on/off/volume switch went south.
I can get it to power up with a jumper wire, but otherwise nothing coming out of that switch.
Have to find another switch.
murf

yes of course.