In cleaning the radio on my 41-295x I have a couple bulbs out. The main one is on the band selector. It sets behind the metal face plate, and moves up and down for each band, but I Can't figure out how to get it out? I don't want to brake anything. Does anyone know how to remove it?
I have it's stout cousin the 41-300 and had to rebuild the socket(s). They use rubber as an insulator for the center contact and it gets hard/unserviceable. Rubber part can be replaced w/a nylon washer and solder connection w/shrink tube. I don't remember how to access the band switch lamp but looks like it's from the front, perhaps after removing the dial glass.
Thanks Terry, after looking at it for a while, I figured out how it comes out, quite simple really, it comes out from the back. The socket is just clipped on, so you pull the socket strate out. Then the lamp just twist and put it out.
The felt covered metal plate seems to be riveted to the frame, it's in front of the lamp, behind the glass. I have some of the felt scraped off, not sure how I will fix that. Maybe I can spray it with brown paint to match the felt. Still trying to find a pointer, it's broken off. Might have to get an old clock, and use the second hand to fix it.
Michael
just go to a fabric store (Jo Ann Fabric?) and get some new felt and use spray adhesive to tack it on
Felt is too thick for the metal dial plate. The dial pointer won't move. It needs to be re-flocked. You can find brown flocking material (almost like a brown dust in texture) online. Just use spray adhesive and sprinkle some on.
Ah, yes... I forgot about that. I ran into that scenario awhile back, and had to "modify" the felting...
I scraped the old flock off, and I ordered some flock, but looks like it's coming from China. I my just try the felt, I already have some, besides haven't been able to find needle for it, but I found a second hand for a old clock, that's the same size. So I have to modify it anyway. It should work. I have the glass on order, not sure when it will show up.
Had to restore the face plate, the letters were all worn off. Put new letters on, and repainted the gold trim. Turned out pretty good if I do say. Here's a picture.
[attachment=16411]
I know some of the letters aren't strate, but it was the best I could do. Ended up distroying the word Loud, so had to replace it one letter at a time, that was fun. It looks much better than it did. This was my first time replaces the letters.
Michael
Hey Micheal,
Looks good! The lettering stands out nice and bright. My '300 is fairly dull. I play it a fair amount as it's a good sounding set and always get the tone and the volume confused. I couldn't tell if the original lettering is slightly raised or if it's printed.
As for the pointer if you are like me, have more time than money you could fashion one from a piece of a tin can and heavy wire. Cut a bit of scrap tin abt 1"x 1/2". Fold in half so now it's 1"x 1/4. On one side cut a couple slits for the dial cord to fit into. On the other side solder a piece of heavy wire (could use a small bit of a coat hanger) to serve as the pointer. A little white paint and your set. This is a general description on how to make one your mileage may vary.
Thanks for the input, but the base for the pointer in still there, just the needle was broken off. I bought a set of hands for a old clock a few years ago, that I never used. The second hand is the perfect size for the pointer, just have to paint it white. Will bend the top to fit, and a little gorilla glue to hold it in place.
This is the first time using water slide graphics, it was interesting. Took a few try's to get it on. The volume got messed up the first try, luckily there were 2 for each one. The second Volume I got on, but then I couldn't get it to move in to place. So I left it there. It's not centered, and too close to the edge. Unfortunately the l
loud graphic got ruined, both of them. Had to take letters from the other left over words to make it, so one letter at a time. Just couldn't get it straight. At least it looks like I just put it on a slant.
Michael
How did you remove the old lettering, im thinking of maybe doing the same for mine but dont want to ruin or rub off the brown tortoise shell design on the underlyimg plastic.
(05-21-2018, 09:24 PM)78zenithtv Wrote: [ -> ]How did you remove the old lettering, im thinking of maybe doing the same for mine but dont want to ruin or rub off the brown tortoise shell design on the underlyimg plastic.
I didn't have to remove the old lettering, it was mostly worn off, the ones that wern't worn off, I just tried to match the existing letters, it turned out pretty good. the water slide graphics were fun to work with, but very hard. the more you work with them the easier it gets. this was my first time, and if you look at the word "Volume" that was the first one I put on, actually it was the second one, the first volume got ruined, so luckily there were 2 of everything. after I got the 2nd one on, I couldn't get to move over, and down. So that's why its off. as I went along it got a little easier. Learned a lot about it. like if you get it wet, as soon as you can get the word to move slide it to the end, just hanging off set it in place, then hold it on the face plate, and slide the paper off. it you add just a little water to the face plate, then you can move the word around just a bit to get it set where you want it. Also if you had a double word like "Band Select" only do one word at a time. Also cut close to the letters it will look better when your done. Finally I put a thin coat of spray clear enamel over the face plate. when your done. I had some Gold paint, so I went over the gold trim on the front. Some day I may try to replace the bad one, but not right now. They weren't that expensive.
Hope that helps.
Michael
The bulbs came today, so I put them in. I noticed the the lamp for the band select was getting pretty hot, and malting the plastic band graphics, so I took a black permit marker, and coated to top of the bulb so it doesn't get to hot. it looked pretty good. Still waiting for the glass, it hasn't shipped yet. That and the Grain Filler is all I'm waiting for.
Michael
Well I have this set just about all finished, I received the dial glass from radio daze, it looks amazing. Was able to make a dial pointer from an old clock second hand, looks great. I had ordered some flocking from eBay, bit it turned out it comes from China, wont be here till next month some time. The cabinet turned out pretty good, still have to do something with the top, it bubbled up a little, not sure what to do about that, may have to strip the top and start over on it.
Now for my question on the radio, I want to recap it, I have a schematic for it, but its not too good, can't tell what the cap values are. I know I can get a cap kit, just not sure I I want to spend $100. for it. I still have to know what cap goes where. Found a place on the net selling a service manual for it, but don't know how good it it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Michael
Give this a try
http://www.audiophool.com/Philco.html
Scroll down to 1941 and click on 41-295 This copy is much cleaner than the NA.
I would think that if you got the caps individually it would be less than $100. Just as a
rough estimation figure $1 ea for the mylars and $2 for ea electrolytic. That will give
you an idea of cost.
If you have nothing be time on your hands here's a quick rundown on a 41-300
I did last fall. It's pretty much the same chassis.
Common issues w/these chassis.
Open primary on output transformer. Would measure the resistance of the primary
should several hundred ohms. This can be accomplished be measuring the resistance
from pin 2 to pin 3 on both 42 tube's sockets
Faulty rubber wiring. Stop by Radiodaze and pick up their selection of multi color wire.
It's abt $20 but you get 8 or 9 spools for 600v plastic covered wire.
Bad off/on switch. It's part of the push button assy and is riveted on. It takes latching
push button sw to replace it.
If you have to service the volume or tone control be careful. These are somewhat
unique in that the shaft has the gear that's spot welded on to it. Short of having a
donor set I don't know if are any replacements.
Thank you for the link Radioroslyn, I will check that out.
All the wiring in this chassis is all good, no rubber wiring. The power cord was the only wire I had to replace. Some one had already replace the plug with a non polarized plug, no sure if it needed a polarized one or not. The output transformer is in good shape, so is the volume, and tone controls. On/Off switch works fine too. the only control that need repair is the Band Select switch, seems to have 5 position instead of 4. Not sure whats up with that. Haven't worked on tube sets for many, many years. Started working on Tube tv's after I got out of the service. But that switched to Solid state rather quickly. Spent the last 40 years working on TV's.
so tubes are a big change. I retired about 8 years ago, so I have a lot of time on my hands.
Michael