Thanks Bob, will look them through.
BTW, still some asbestos there...not as much.
Red, black, blue, and yellow, blue and brown is the "B" side, black and red is the "A" side, I think that was the RMA standard code, though it did very. Unless you plan on running it from batteries it doesn't matter for anything other then esthetics, at least the battery cable is fairly short compared to some of my farm sets. For whatever reason brand Z was still using that awful rubber/gutta percha wire up until 1948 whilst Philco switched from rubber to vinyl almost immediately after the war, alternating between using it and cloth wire.
Regards
Arran
I don't care much about colors either. But if I have the matching color, I use it.
I guess in 1948 the properties of gutta percha insulation haven't been fully experienced.
While surveying the underchassis I noticed one of the tuning cap's posts where the grommet has to be replaced is right under an RF coil. While changing the grommet is ok, could be done from the top, unscrewing that nut and then putting it back might be onerous.
Meantime, restuffed a few caps yesterday.
After having recapped half the tubulars and rebuilt ne electrolytic it was time to re-grommet the tuning cap: with the electrolytic in place that would be impossible.
The mentioned nut under the coil was a bear. But I persevered and it budged.
Now comes the rest of the tubulars, rebuilding the second electrolytic.....
Recaped chassis.
[
attachment=17380]
The caps under the RF coil on the right proved a bit of a challenge. Same reason as for the re-grommeting the tuning cap.
Mike not much room under there it looks like that one is going to be a chore to do.
John
It's done - I finished it before I took that photo. Yes it was onerous.
There is a couple of caps under that coil that cannot even be seen, but it is there.
Whew! Done with the recap.
Had to replace a couple of wires that cracked while I was doing it.
Now the battery connection, has to be fully rewired.
Then the tuning cap flush with blue shower, then possibly Deoxit blast to the band switch.
Then the tubes check.
So...just one battery wire needed replacement, not sure why in one spot it hardened and cracked while remaining pliable along the rest of it.
Then the tube test. All but one tube tested new: the bad one, the 1LD5 det-amp, had several shorts.
Luckily I had one, an NOS I bought as a part of the kit for 7G605.
Guess this is why it didn't work (was told it did). Probably a goid thing too, else if it worked right out, I might have been tempted to leave it be.
Oh..... not sure what version I have but it has 1LA4 pushpull instead of 1LB4 , and 117Z3 rectifier instead of 117Z6.
Long story short, the BC worked right out.
No activity on any SW band so will see what happens during the alignment.
That is a very busy looking chassis under there, I would be very curious how the BCB reception is at nite.
Bet it is a hot set.
Paul
It's not bad even now, in my basement, with no antenna at all. I'm sure with the rod or the loop it's going to be even better.
Looks like you had your hands full with caps to re-build.
Good original looking restore.
