Hi gentlemen, I got a 40-158 that I purchased from a highschool classmate for $40. I will need to make a new bezel for it, because they are apparently made from unobtainium. I think if I take my time I can make something from wood that will be pretty nice. My question is regarding the top/front veneer right in the curvature where it has split and is separating on each side. See the photos below. How would one go about repairing these? I'm thinking somehow trying to get some glue in there and trying to clamp it to pull it in. I want to understand the best way to attack this. I plan to probably strip this unit down and refinish it in original finishes.
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That's tough problem to fix. General consensus is you can try gluing but most of the time it will reappear after a while. Diehards will remove the veneer which in your case is a pretty big piece. Sometimes the the wood under the veneer is cracking too so that may need to replaced also. If I was going to remove the veneer I would cut it between the two inlays.
I was recently gifted a very similar set (40-165K) at has an extra band and pushbuttons. I've been very happy w/the performance of the set. Good sounding and good sensitivity. This one was missing the spkr so I ended up fitting w/a 15" RCA pm job and an old junk box choke to replace the field coil. If you could use a couple of pics of the dial escutcheon I can post them. It's shrunk a little and a couple of the corners are missing but still presentable.
(09-01-2018, 08:38 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ]If you could use a couple of pics of the dial escutcheon I can post them. It's shrunk a little and a couple of the corners are missing but still presentable.
I absolutely could use the pictures sir, thank you! I plan to strip this down and refinish, so I'll see what it looks like at that time for the veneer, but I will probably try gluing it first. I would have no idea how to remove the existing veneer in order to replace it. I've never done it before.
Some of the Philco dials use a plastic window however this one is glass which is/was a good idea. It helps minimize the shrinkage to the tenite.
(09-01-2018, 09:16 PM)Radioroslyn Wrote: [ -> ]Some of the Philco dials use a plastic window however this one is glass which is/was a good idea. It helps minimize the shrinkage to the tenite.
Thank you, that definitely helps. So the glass is flat and the bezel actually goes in on the insides of the opening to meet the glass flatly. Replicating that will definitely not be easy. Dang I wish I had a 3D printer!
Gentlemen I have the 40-158 cabinet stripped, repaired and sanding sealer applied. Tomorrow I plan to apply the grain filler. I have a few questions since this is my first restoration.
1. Do I need to sand the sanding sealer prior to applying the grain filler, if yes what grit is proper?
2. Once the filler is finished (applied, removed and clean) do I spray it with sanding sealer again or go ahead and apply my toner right over the grain filler (once it is cured)?
3. Once I have the toner the way I want it, do I go ahead and spray the first coat of clear over the whole works and then do a wet sand followed up by any additional coats of clear?
4. Is there a estimated tack time between the toner coat and the clear lacquer coats. I realize temp and humidity will play into it, but I'm planning to wait for a perfect day to do the actual finish.
Thanks for any help!
I was a little luckier with a 40-158 radio I recently refinished. It had been in an attic or basement for over 60 years but didn’t have any delamination. To finish it, I decided to break the rules an sand off the old finish, blend a Min-Wax stain for the ‘white wood’ to match the natural finish of the walnut veneer, and then apply a brushing lacquer over everything. The result is a little more visible wood grain vs. a toning lacquer. Attached are before and after pics.
Welcome to the Phorum!
Try again with those pictues...
Trying again with the photos. Not sure what happens last time.
>1. Do I need to sand the sanding sealer prior to applying the grain filler, if yes what grit is proper?
I do but I don't know that it's absolutely necessary. I generally go with abt 3 coats of ss before sanding. As for grit something between 320-600 works for me.
>2. Once the filler is finished (applied, removed and clean) do I spray it with sanding sealer again or go ahead and apply my toner right over the grain filler (once it is cured)?
I tend to use a lot of ss and would give it a coat before toning. It will give you some perspective as to how well the grain filler filled and if you need to go over it again.
>3. Once I have the toner the way I want it, do I go ahead and spray the first coat of clear over the whole works and then do a wet sand followed up by any additional coats of clear?
I would give it several coats of clear before wet sanding if not it's pretty easy to sand thru the clear and into the toner. Would also block sand where possible it will give you a nice flat (level) surface.
>4. Is there a estimated tack time between the toner coat and the clear lacquer coats. I realize temp and humidity will play into it, but I'm planning to wait for a perfect day to do the actual finish.
Well your looking for a day that is above 60 deg and below 60% humidity, just in case have your no blush handy. The lacquer dries pretty quick I'd say abt 1/2 hour to respray or handle. If it has several coats of clear on it I'd wait overnight before wet sanding. For buffing a month for a full cure.
Hope this answers your questions
Thanks Terry, I did do much of it Saturday and finally applied the toner and first coat of clear today. Friday is supposed to be decent here, so I hope to be able to get more clear on it and wet sand this weekend. So far I'm pretty happy with how it is turning out since this is my first cabinet restoration. Considering the veneer damage and all it is looking pretty good. There was definitely a learning curve with the toner. I believe my next one will be better. Here's a couple shots of it when I finished up today. I know it is most likely not even close to the original, but since I couldn't find any good color photos from the era with it new, I just made it look the way I wanted it to look. I did find some darn close grill cloth though. Also, when I apply the decals do I do it on a shiny coat, then spray clear over it? Or do I wet sand, apply the decals, then spray the clear?
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For decals, you will get the best results if you apply decals after toner and before you begin to spray the clear lacquer. If you apply the decals after you've applied a few coats of clear lacquer, the cut lines of the decals will always show unless you then apply a lot more coats of clear, and you really don't want to do that.
Thanks Ron, that really makes sense, to late on this one though. I’ll remember that for any future radios using decals. This one being my first isn’t “correct” anyway. Since I’m doing it for myself and keeping it I’m just chocking up to my learning experience. I’m just trying to make it look the best I can, and hopefully I’ll keep getting better.
After applying the decals as one of the final steps prior to the final coat or two of lacquer for years, and always being annoyed by the raised lines of the decals in the finish, one or two years ago I decided to try applying the decal after toner and before any clear. It turned out very well indeed. I really think this is how it was done at the factory. Of course I wasn't there at the time so I don't know that for a fact, but I believe it to be so based on the much better look of decals that are under all of the coats of clear.
Yes that makes complete sense and will be the way I do it from now on. I really appreciate your insight and comments.