The PHILCO Phorum

I just acquired a Philco Socket Power 8. It is a B battery power supply that runs off line current. If anyone has a schematic for it, or any other information on it, I would be much obliged. The previous owner replaced the bad wet electrolytic rectifiers with modern diodes, and says it is working, but I have yet to test it.

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Mike hope this helps    http://www.philcoradio.com/phorum/showth...p?tid=1372    
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philco

Thanks, David, for the picture and for the links. I'll have to check my Rider's CD in volume 1, and see if it has anything on my model.

Looked closely at the face plate of the unit and it is a model 601B. I looked in my Rider CD for volume 1, and found Model 603B which appears to be about the same circuit wise, but mine differs a good bit from the pictures of the 603B interior I found in the links above.  Here's what I found inside mine:






I'm figuring how to remove the whole guts. Looks like 3 large machine screws from the bottom, and the small machine screws that hold in the front panel.  I may actually have lucked out. There is a schematic for it inside the unit behind the rectifier tubes. There was a picture of it taken by the previous owner before he made the substitute rectifier tubes with modern diodes inside. I certainly DO have to replace the line cord which is beginning to fray. It is the ancient two cloth covered wires twisted together type! Fortunately, an antique lamp supply place I have dealt with before carries it.  https://www.antiquelampsupply.com/light-brown-twisted-lamp-cord.html 

Mike can you post a picture of the Sch. Philco started out making batteries and then radios and made a device to replace batteries!!!!!!!!!

here is a picture of the schematic inside the box...

Here is the closest I could find in the Rider manuals...

I have finished working on my Socket Power unit. I found that the proper light bulb to use to get the 135+ volts for the audio output stage is 14 watts. I bought several different bulbs from Bulbs.com, 7 1/2 watt, 14 watt, 15 watt, and 25 watt. Kept trying until I hit the right one. 15 watt was about 145V out, and 7 1/2 watt was only about 100V, but fortunately I had bought the 14 watt bulb which worked perfectly. I also had to replace the resistor between the amplifier +B supply which is supposed to be set at 90 volts for my Freed Eismann Model 50, and the detector B+ which is supposed to be 22 1/2 volts for the UX001A detector tube. Now all the voltages are correct. I made a test jig so these tests could be done under approximately the correct load using a terminal strip and 3 resistors. I calculated the values of the resistors based on the amount of current that they would drop at the correct voltage, figuring for the 00A only on the detector, 5 01A's TRF stages and first 2 audio stages on the 90V+ output, and the 71A output the only one drawing on the 135V. Everything seems to work fine. I looked to check for ripple with my scope and there was nothing noticeable. They must have really calculated this one well, Now I'm working on a Magnavox Telemegaphone speaker to use with the radio. Once that is done I'll put together the C batteries for the radio, easy enough using 3 C cells each for the 2 4 1/2 volt C batteries. I look forward to trying this radio out. I bought it more than 50 years ago, when I was about 13. It cost me $20, which was a lot of money for me back then. It was the most I had ever paid for an old radio. Usually it was no more than $5, and often my neighbors would give them to me free, or I'd find them being thrown out. Back then I built a B supply for it and had it working with an RCA speaker I usually use with my Atwater Kent Model 40. I would like to get it working again.

It may be sacrilege but I gutted a Socket Power B and managed to fit a an ARBE III into the case. I had to remove the plastic ARBE case and install some angled wood supports. With the Socket Power cover opened I can attach all of the necessary voltages to the front panel. I had to add one pair of terminals for the detector voltage and I brought them out to the pair of (now) unused holes on the bottom right of the front panel.