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Full Version: Philco 38-690 Source for 630 volt Solen and Regular Electrolytic Capacitors.
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I am working on a Philco 38-690. Most all of the electrolytic capacitors have been replaced in the past. I am looking where I can purchase 630 Solen and regular Electrolytic capacitors?

Thanks,
nv3g
Oscar
I used higher rating for the caps that are parts of the primary rectifiers' (two of those) filters.
I serialized 22uF 450V high-ripple Panasonic caps to get 11uF of high-voltage capacitance where 8uF was needed.
the caps after the tweeters' field coils might be 450V as there is significant drop across them.

I am sure 450V is Ok too.
http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=18450

In this 38-690 restore linked above, I used two 8 uF 630V Solen caps in parallel to equal 16 uF to replace the 18 uF cap, and 8 uF 630V film caps to replace the 8 uF caps.

30-2201 was originally rated as follows: 8 uF, 475V and 10 uF, 50V.

I would not use 450V caps, especially taking into consideration today's higher line voltages. I would go with 500V, minimum. Or better yet, use as many Solens as you can - they should never need replacement again as long as you own the set.
(12-06-2018, 10:46 AM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: [ -> ]http://philcoradio.com/phorum/showthread.php?tid=18450

In this 38-690 restore linked above, I used two 8 uF 630V Solen caps in parallel to equal 16 uF to replace the 18 uF cap, and 8 uF 630V film caps to replace the 8 uF caps.

30-2201 was originally rated as follows: 8 uF, 475V and 10 uF, 50V.

I would not use 450V caps, especially taking into consideration today's higher line voltages. I would go with 500V, minimum. Or better yet, use as many Solens as you can - they should never need replacement again as long as you own the set.


Ron, I just now saw your thread on your 690. Sure brought back memories of restoring that 38-116 that I bought from you many years ago. My 116 had the same hacked up tube shield bases. Luckily Gary Schneider of PTOP had some NOS Philco tube bases in stock that I was able to purchase at the time.

I also recall having to use a Dremel to slightly enlargen the hole in the repro dial that I purchased from Mark Oppat.

Here is the article about my 38-116. That article was written a while back and my restoration skills, as well as my writing skills, have vastly improved since then. I see quite a few things that I would have done differently today.
Jeremy

You certainly turned that ugly duckling 38-116 back into a beautiful swan! Icon_thumbup Icon_thumbup