The PHILCO Phorum

Full Version: Automatic Tuning Vernier Disassembly
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Guest

Has anyone taken apart the vernier assembly for Philco Automatic Tuning mechanism? I'm currently working on a 37-675x Deluxe. The mechanism is all gummed up. I can't even turn the dial with either course or fine tuning as is, they both just slip. I'd would like to take this thing apart to clean and relube.

According the service instructions http://www.philcorepairbench.com/pdf/SB273p2.pdf (thank you Chuck for supplying this info!) in section 3e you're suppose to "hold a block of wood against the side of the vernier drive housing in which the lock pin is located and tap the end of the wood block with a hammer sharply to loosen the lock pin." I don't understand how this will work. If the block of wood is over the pin, like the instructions indicate, will the pin slide into the assembly? Or should the wood block be on the opposite side of the pin so that it will be forced out of the assembly? Has anyone done this?

Guest

Never mind. I got it. Gotta hit the opposite side. All lube up and working well.
Good to know you figured it out! Icon_smile

I've had to do this a few times. Not always fun, and the pin doesn't always cooperate. I was working on an Automatic Tuning Philco a year or so ago, and that pin refused to come out. Fortunately I had a couple spare mechanisms, so I just pulled the mechanism and replaced it with another, in which the pin would come out. Cleaned and relubed...worked like new.

Guest

Yes, it does require a little luck. The pin popped out just enough so that I could grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers. However, after reassembly of the dial I still have the same problem. The dial still isn't free to turn. It wants to grab onto the band selector mask to turn with it. Holding the mask stationary the dial just wont turn with the vernier. I'm wondering if there is a gasket that is missing what would allow the dial to slip freely without grabbing the mask with it? From what I can tell from the parts list all parts are present though, even the thin wire spring in the collar that sits between the dial and mask. I'm thinking about fabricating a fiber or paper washer to be placed on each side of the mask to reduce friction.

Guest

Got it figured out. Either the metal drum expanded slightly or the shadow mask shrunk a little, probably the later. I used a dremel with a sanding disc and carefully ran it around the inside perimeter of the shadow mask. The dial moves freely now.