The PHILCO Phorum

Yup, I bought another National SW-54. This was a plain old bread and butter one, not exotic like the last one I wrote about here. I bought it back last November, and have been working on it on and off since. This one needed quite a bit of work. I first replaced all the paper condensers, as well as the big multi section "firecracker" electrolytic. (By the way, this guy offers complete kits for many radios, including reproduction multi section electrolytics. https://hayseedhamfest.com/  He may be able to make something for your needs too. I also bought a kit for a National NC-71 which will be my next project.) I also replaced the old line cord with a new one and an appropriate grommet. Then I found that quite a number of the resistors were WAY out of spec, so those got replaced. The radio still didn't work right. I double and triple checked all my work, but it was correct. Finally I cleaned all the switches and the volume pot, and the radio came to life. So, now I have another SW-54. I rather like this model radio. It may be a variation on the All American 5, with BCB, and 3 SW bands, but it actually is a decent little performer. So, here is a "before" picture of the underside of the chassis, and an "after picture of the radio playing WSM out of Nashville.
[url=https://hayseedhamfest.com/][/url]

If you like a little National AC/DC action try a NC-46. Nice sounding set with p/p 25L6's for the output tubes and a 6K8 hexode mixer.

I meant to say an NC-125, not 71. Getting drifty in my old age. This is a picture of it as received, it's from the eBay listing. I picked it up VERY reasonable. Sometimes you do find a bargain there.

Hello mike,
what nice set and I see you have put a lot work into .

I am currently working on a zenith Model 908 had to replaced all the capacitors .
I stuffed new capacitors in the old shells .
Sincerely Rich

Hi Rich,
I just looked at the schematic for the Zenith 908. It is an interesting transition model,6 tubes, with an RF amp stage from about 1935, where some of the tubes are the newer number letter number and some are the older number only types. As you can see from my pictures I do not re-stuff the old caps, I merely replace them with brand new of equal or better voltage rating. Having been repairing old radios for more than half a century now, I follow an old habit of making it obvious what parts are new when I do a repair. That way, any future tech who works on it in another 60 or 70 years can see what was done and when. Making the caps look like they were original just confuses matters. That may be fine for a museum piece, but for general restoration, the parts are under the chassis and will never be seen except by whoever works on it next, so there is no real point to all that extra work, and, as I said, there are good reasons against it. Good luck with your endeavors. I hope you will post some pictures of your work here.
Mike

That's why you can leave a note under the chassis somewhere letting people know that the caps were restuffed, should you choose to do so. In all honesty I restuff because the look of daffodil yellow caps under a 1930s radio just plain looks wrong, but I reserve that for special sets, such as ones that are all, or mostly original under the chassis. Even if you don not restuff it's easy enough to leave a bag/envelope with the original caps in it inside the cabinet in case someone down the road wants to do what Rich is doing. But this begs the question, what about Philco Bakelite block caps, and metal can block condensers, I.E the kind that were used in Philco 96s for example, most people restuff those because they also double as terminal strips?
Regards
Arran

I re-stuff the bakelite blocks because they act as terminal strips for the parts within. I also re-stuff electrolytic cans because it saves space underneath the radio which would be taken up by electrolytic condensers if I put them under the chassis., although now and then I just put them underneath if there is room. I suppose I just do things the way I have all my life. I don't do repair work which is a waste of time since nobody but the next repair guy is going to see it. It works well for me, so I'm not going to change.