Hello, new guy here!
Picked up a 41-629 in repairable condition.
I found limited schematics, I can see one of the power cord lines goes to a leg on the transformer, but the other end goes to 16A, whatever that is.
All the wired coming out of the amp/radio box are snipped on the right side back, I can't figure out where they go.
Anyone have a drawing or picture that shows where the external wires go?
Also, looks like an indicator light is missing from the front, as well as the original knob. I can probably find a close match for the knob. Anyone have a picture of the light?
I would love to warm the 'ol girl up and see if she talks!
Thanks!
Mark
The schematic is here:
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/resources/449/M0013449.htm
16A is the Power On pushbutton. When the button is pressed the switch is activated and supplies power to the transformer. We don't recommend applying power before testing the power transformer windings with an ohmmeter and replacing the power supply filter electrolytic capacitors. If you ignore doing this you run the risk of damaging other components like tubes and coils. Paper tubular capacitors should also be replaced.
The schematic shows three wires to the loop antenna, external aerial and wires to the phono pickup and motor in addition to what looks like a socket for an external speaker. You'll have to trace the individual wires back in the chassis where they connect then find those points in the schematic. I noticed some are color coded.
I also noticed you have a bakelite block, part 81, which contains two paper capacitors wired to the power transformer primary circuit. Inside the block the capacitors are encased in a black solid tar. Read the process for removing them from the block here on the Phorum, then replace the capacitors with Y2 safety caps. Lots of fun!!
Hi Mark and welcome,
Hmmmm 16A you say it's the off/on switch. Philco wasn't big on doing drawings of wiring layouts pretty much just parts so you can find them from looking on the schematic. It's been a while since I've worked a BOL set but best I remember there's a power cable for the phono motor (120vac) a coax cable that goes from phono to the radio chassis (power for the BOL lamp) and maybe a cable from the photosensor to the matching transformer.
If your using a diagram from Nostalair, it's pretty ruddy here's a better one:
https://philcoradio.com/library/download...20Book.pdf
<looks like an indicator light is missing>
Not sure what mean. It's not uncommon on the '41 models to have plastic lens that fall out over time from shrinkage.
Knobs shouldn't be a problem. There are repro and original available.
Would advise that you NOT power this set up before doing a service check to see if it has been serviced in the last decade or two. If not it will need a good going over and there is a fair amount of work to do.
If you don't heed this warning do upgrade your fire insurance.
If you like post some pic's of the chassis that would help sort your issues. I'll need to resize them to abt 900x900 to fit the Phorums requirement.
Thank you all for your input and advice. Too bad there isn't a kit with all the parts that need to be upgraded!
Anyone have a list of all the capacitors (condensers) modern part cross? I would lie to just order everything in one whack. I want to keep the tubes and general original function, but I'm ok upgrading the old leaky and antiquated capacitors for modern ones.
I can run through all the resistors and make sure they are within tolerance (+/- 5%?)
This one doesn't have the light wave thing in the phonograph, looks like standard wired cartridge.
There is also an RCA style jack wired in, I'm thinking audio input?
Anyway, I have much to learn, and I'm so very grateful to have found this phorum!
>There is also an RCA style jack wired in, I'm thinking audio input?
No it's actually a rf output...
Capacitor values are not an exact science. Select replacement values as close to original as possible. Since 630 volt film caps are most abundant as paper wax replacements you'll find that 630 is the most economical. For electrolytics use the closest capacitance value and at least the same voltage. Some parts sellers sell kits with the most common values.
For resistor tolerance, most use 20 percent to replace, I use 10. Pay attention to the wattage and tolerance mark on the resistor or parts list.
I always verify the value of a part with the schematic. The schematic isn't always correct but if someone has replaced parts before you it's a good bet they may be the wrong parts.
You are asking the right questions and there are multiple answers so keep asking.