Hello recently recapped chassis and replaced push - push off on switch, then to the changer disassembled and removed all the old grease and relubed and brought up to speed. On to the BOL ( beam of lite) tone arm lamp was burned out and as far as I could find out unavailable so put in # 55 lamp powered off rectified filament supply and filtered with 15,000 mfd & small resistor still wound up with 6.3 v .original selenium pick up cell only put out .1v so I tried silicon photo cells I could not get any voltage out of them so I tried a solar cell made for toys it fits on an angle in the arm but angle dosent seem to matter got .92 v out of it . Soldered on new 78 needle on to mirror pick up, I get fairly good volume with control close to max. My question is has anyone come up with a better pick up or can suggest a better one?
Forrest
I just tried using two photodiodes as recommended by Bill Thompson on his website. Please see my post “Beam of Light Good Results” I was skeptical but it worked great. I was able to get the diodes on EBay at $16 door a pack of 5. I connected two together as he recommends with opposite polarity and a 3.3k resistor across their output. I was truly amazed.
Hi,
When I restored a 41-608 I had to create a photocell pickup, create my own stylus/ The original photocell was dead, however the original bulb was still good. I didn't attempt to take it from the socket for fear I'd break it' It was stuck tight.
I didn't go the photo-diode method, but went with a photocell. A friend sent two of the small rectangular cells which I connected in series. In bright light they put out about 2.7V IIRC, it's been a while.
Mounted then new cells in front of the original cell. The bulb didn't seem as bright as the photos I"ve seen online with the bright head shell, I was able to adjust the voltage to max. The Voltage came from the OSC circuit I believe and was separate from any filament supply. The 'brightness' control for the bulb was a trimmer capacitor. The current that came from this section is said to be pure DC and had no ripple.
Upon testing I had the head shell off, and was getting sound when the stylus arm moved. But, there was a hum! All groiunds were in place, but oon found out that the cells were picking up the incandescent light from the light fixture in the room. The cell was picking up the 60cycle pulese from the lamp bulb overhead
I then used an LED flashlight, it also 'heard' the pulsations on hi beam and especially the low beam where the LED pulse rate was lower.
The stylus are impossible ti find so I have to find pics, then create my own. I used some springy thin copper sheet. about the same thickness as original. I made a tiny hole in the copper strip so that a generic ruby stylus made for 78 rpm would stick through. IIRC the original had solder on it? Or it was squared off I can't remember, but the stylus assembly was now on the head. Proper angle of the stylus was done close as possible.
Record test was very good. I was getting some kind of metal "ringing" sound occasionally. The changer sections worked flawlessly, I had ordered the two idler wheels from VM.
The customer was happy, I was also and really I don't like to fool with phonos. I had never done a BOL so I convinced the owner to retain the unique turntable. I don't think I'd fool with another one.
Thank you Gary and Darren for your reply’s, what photo cells did you use? I tried two different ones and could get no output so that’s why I switched to a toy solar cell but output is only .9 volts. I don’t know how to get to bill Thompson web site.
Forrest.
Hi! New user here! And not too experienced in refurbishing old radios. I've done a few...but they were not in bad condition.
Working on a 41-608 Code 122. The turntable is in poor condition. I noted on your post your ordered new idler wheels from "VM". Can I get more details please? I have two black wheels that are "dented" - like the table was stuck and the shaft just wore a dent in them.
Also, the center gear (brown, plastic) is missing some teeth. I think it will still work, but I'd replace it if I could find the right part.
Looks like I'll have some work on the pickup as well - still evaluating that and haven't tested the light or sensor yet. I'll wait until I get the recap done. Looks like some great ideas on this forum!
Any guidance on getting parts, etc. is deeply appreciated.
Thanks,
Gary
Thanks, Bob!
Found the website and the information I need for now.
Checked out your radio restorations on you page. Impressive. After getting the Philco working, I'll be looking for tips on cabinet refinishing. looks like you did some great restoration work.
Best Regards,
Gary
Hi Gary,
I've completed my recap and the radio sounds great. Still have plenty to do. My BOL bulb works with 3 three volt battery source, but not when connected to the chassis leads (and the selector switch set to phono. I did trace it back to the OSC transformer. Did you ever check the resistance to ground at that point? I'm reading 0 (ZERO) while I thought I'd get least .5 ohms. The OSC trans looks OK on visual inspection, and the radio is working - I get stations when I plug in the speaker. I'm thinking it is really probably OK. But when powered, I get no voltage on C3. Do you know what should be there?
If I may ask, the trimmer is closest to the chassis, correct? That part has three adj. caps in it and that is what I believed I traced it to. (Gee, I guess this assumes that they were consistent at the factory in their wiring.) Did you ever check the resistance to ground at that point? I'm also reading 0 (ZERO) while I thought I'd get least 2 ohms ( 1 + 1.1 per the schematic.) (from 11B). It looks like it hasn't been adjusted since it was first sold. I had to clean out the dirt from the trim screw head. Could it really need adjusting at this time. I did not replace this cap givin the integrated part it is in. I was thinking of giving it a blast of DeoxitD5 and letting it dry.
I did this testing with the speaker unplugged and the turntable off. But it looked like as long as the selector switch is on phono, I should get the bulb on.
This is all new ground for me. Any guidance you can give will be appreciated.
Thanks & Regards,
Gary
Anyone ever deal with the power switch for this 41-608 Code 122 model? I understand it's used on other models as well.
I found an intermittent short in the push button switch that actually caused - blowing out the Y74 Rectifier Tube. (another on order.)
I had plugged the radio into my short detector and everything was fine. So bypassing it, I was playing the radio just fine while turning my attention to the work needed on the (disconnected) record player. Went to turn off the radio and the button didn't feel right, dial lights flickered, and I pulled the plug as quickly as possible, but I saw the flashing in the rectifier tube.
Testing the switch leads after disconnecting them from the rest of the radio, I could gently tug on one of the wires and depending upon how I moved it, it would open or close (or my meter would bounce around) when the the switch was closed (on). Anyway, by gently pulling on that wire for testing a couple of times, it came completely out. The wire's insulation looks pretty black (burnt) where they enter the switch.
It looks like this is not mounted so as not to come off the push button assembly. Carefully probing around the plastic black case, it appears it would lift off if I drill off the two metal grommet tops just to lift the black case off I can access the terminal points for new wires. But I'm not sure if those metal grommets are holding the entire switch on the assembly.
Anyone ever deal with this? I'm guessing a replacement part is impossible to find. Any comments, ideas, etc. welcome.
Regards, Gary
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attachment=24703][
attachment=24703]Hello Gary,
Had same problem bad off on switch, went to hardware store and got a push push off on switch and drilled out the old one found a piece of sturdy scrap metal and mounted it to the back support for the assembly. See pix. Put washers in to get the rite distance to make it work, also rebuilt BOL changer pick up rectified filament voltage for lamp,ask if you want further info.
Forrest
Hi Forrest,
Thanks for the tip. In the radio I'm working on, the on/off push switch is at the far right end (looking at the back, like your pictures), but in principle I should be able to do the same thing.
So far in testing the components of the BoL, the motor works but needs new rubber wheels. Had to make up a couple of new rubber motor mounts, the other were actually gooey mush.
The lamp lights with 3 volts (2 @ 1.5 volt batteries), but I can't seem to get any voltage from the OSC coil to drive it as designed. Maybe the adjustment POT will help. Haven't tried that yet. How did connect to filament voltage for the lamp? Did you reduce the voltage at all?
The Photo cell connected to my Volt-Ohm meter flickers from zero to a couple of volts when I wave a flashlight in front of it. That seems promising.
The bottom square gasket holding the needle feels OK - it gives like rubber. The top one is like a rock. Just received an assorted box of watch crown/stem o-rings. Will see if I can use a couple to ft for that.
While I am waiting for a new tube to arrive, I'm taking the precaution and replacing the wires down to the speaker, and down to the turntable.
Any advice/comments/insight is always welcome.
Thanks,
Gary
Sorry, You are correct. I was confusing were the switch was with the screws above them. I just checked and yes, my switch is exactly where yours is.
regards,
Gary
Hi Gary,
You have half the battle won already your photo cell is good if you can get two volts out of it and bulb is good. My bulb was bad and not replaceable so I used a #55 bulb and needed 6 volts for it so I rectified filament voltage to lite it my sell only put out .1 volt so I used a toy solar cell it puts out .9 volts have to have volume at max to get good sound, I would like to get a better pick up cell. Check phono switch and Osc coil for continuity and adjust control. My needle was missing had to solder on new one didn’t change rubber mounting it seemed to work ok.
Forrest.
Hi Forest, et. al.
Back at it after 6 weeks off (out of town.) The new turntable wheels came in from V-M and work great! That's the good news.
The bad news is the OSC coil driving the BoL lamp judt doesn't work. Adjusting the pot didn't do anything. I think I'll simply go the rectified filament voltage route if others have had good success with it. Anyone have a simple schematic for what I need? Noise problems? The lamp seems to work OK. It looked darn bright when I used a 9 V battery. I have no idea what it is rated for.
Also, the photo cell barely puts out .2VDC when I light the lamp with a nine-volt battery. I had 3 ea 1.25 rechargeable AA batteries in series and had to crank up the volume to barely hear it. So the cell will need replacing. Anyone have any updated information on what to use and how to mount? Any guidance would be appreciated.
Regards,
Gary
Boy what a dummy I am. I just found an old post about BoL that casually mentions that the light needs to be half on/half off the photocell. What? I made that adjustment and powered the light with 2 @ 1.25 rechargeable AA batteries and what a sound! Plenty of volume! Just listened to a recording of "Who Thew the Overalls in Mrs. Murphy's Chowder" by The Jesters.
Anyone actually have a PDF of a service manual that describes this 1/2 on 1/2 off setup?
Now I just need a wiring schematic for constant 3v dc power source, off the filament circuit I suppose, if anyone has one...please...
...one other thought...if the lamp was powered of an OSC, isn't it some kind of high frequency AC?
Regards,
Gary
