Bryan,
Though, I mentioned filling out an order, possibly saving on shipping with AES.
You find great prices on tubes here:
http://www.findatube.com/
Bob is a collector and FWIR worked with Estes auctions having the opportunity to clear large estates of tubes.
Other than Bob is often away, working at conventions, overall, he gives a quick response to your order.
I don't know exactly what the dial looks like on your radio, but if it is printed orange celluloid or reverse printed glass. Keep water and solvents away. The inks/paints have become unstable over the years and the least bit of liquid wipes out the markings.
GL
Chas
Little more work, as long as my brain & nerves last. Working in area of 42 & 44. See pics.
Got to go pressure wash brickwork at father's old house.
Hello Ron,
I have used the Edcor brand transformers and been really happy with them and you can even get transformer bell ends !
Sincerely Richard
Got a little more done. I work about 2 hours every morning, then do outside work.
It's stressful, working with brittle wires, avoiding damaging those wax covered coils, checking and rechecking schematics, avoiding overheating components while soldering, keeping the solder from dropping elsewhere.
Brain and nerves allow about 2 hrs at a time.
Using crimp connectors to hold everything together before soldering.
More work today since weather is bad. Regrounded power switch. Old ground wire had broken off (before I even started working). I resoldered it with a larger iron, in a better location.
Added a new ground point on the end of the Bakelite container that contains cap #40.
Working on cap 42, added 41 in a better location, attached to new ground point.
Waiting on new colored wires and OPT in mail.
Done for today. Finished cap 42.
Got output transformer in mail. After a few other things I'll figure out how to wire it in.
Inside the radio I couldn't route the speakers wires like they were originally and twisted. Was afraid I'd mess up the other wiring, it's so brittle. So I picked separate routes instead.
Need advice. Was looking how to wire in the new output transformer Chas found and I ordered. $20 Think I figured it out Terminal 2 on the OLD output transformer is not needed.
Just wondering if the primary polarity is important? See my pictures for how I PLAN to connect new OPT..
Bryan
Red is B+, Blue is plate of output tube.
Black to one end of the hum-buck winding and the yellow to the voice coil.
RESTORE the original connection of the hum-buck and the voice coil to complete the voice circuit in the speaker.
If there is a background hum, try swapping only the yellow/black on the voice-coil/hum-buck. Do not alter the connection of hum-buck to voice coil.
If the hum goes away or gets less, keep, if not swap back.
GL
Chas
Thanks, I'll switch the red and blue as suggested. Bryan
Bryan
Why use short-lead caps? Just because this is what you have or it was a conscious buy?
Personally, I prefer axials. They fit just about any replacement for restuffing: backelite blocks, tubular axials and even electrolytic caps in some cases.
I certainly do not use radials with short leads, and, unless price/required parameter ratio dictates otherwise, try not to use radials at all. With notable exception of safety caps, especially Y-rated, as most of those are radials.
Some of the short leads were the only ones I could find near the rated uF and voltage. The one in the Bakelite block #40 was really short. Long leads are preferable.
Really got involved in emptying out the old capacitor. Didn't know it had so much fluid in it. Assumed some kind of acid so I had face shield, worked outside.
Used dremel to cut the crimped end off. Then drilled it out. Washed it with water, then fished the foil and stuff out with a hook. Washed it out again with soap & water and dried on stove.
I usually shake the cap before gutting it. Most times it is solid. One time, methinks, it was a Zenith one, a slender fella, had liquid in it. So often do the Mershons.
I then drilled a hole and drained it before proceeding.
Enough for today...Cap 20 and surroundings. Using automotive pin connectors to help hold wires together before soldering.