03-16-2012, 06:03 PM
Bob's (bandersen) thread on his 41-316 prompted me to start this one.
I've had this 41-616 since 2010. As is the case with many of my sets, it has been sitting, patiently waiting for me to do something with it...
When I acquired this set, it had no tubes, and was missing its original 3-post De Luxe Inter-Mix changer. Some nondescript 1950s changer was placed in the phono compartment...and I do mean placed...not bolted in, just sitting on the motor board.
I plan to install a rebuilt 1942 Beam of Light changer that has been converted to 78 rpm (only) rim drive. The 1942 changer has a solenoid to trip the reject mechanism; this will allow the Mystery Control as well as the far right pushbutton to reject records as it was originally designed.
Anyway...earlier this week, I pulled the huge chassis out and set it on the workbench.
I removed the dial scale and put it away, not to be replaced until the chassis is finished.
As you can see, there are no tubes...but the tube shields are all there in the Mystery Control section of the chassis.
Bob (bandersen), I think the chassis in my set is a bit more crowded than your 41-316 chassis is...
If you notice, many of the original paper caps were replaced, mostly with turquoise Sangamo caps, and a few with black Cornell Dubilier caps. This was probably done in the late 1950s or early 1960s.
The original electrolytics were also replaced with Twist-Lock electrolytics. One was installed well, on a phenolic mounting board; the other was just sort of stuck in an existing hole in a sloppy fashion.
Lots and lots of rubber-covered wiring under the chassis.
Oh, and surprisingly, the audio output transformer is still good! These are often bad in the 1939-1942 models.
I've decided that instead of resleeving all of the wires with heat shrink tubing as I usually do, in this chassis I am going to replace the longer wires and the wiring harnesses running from the stepper unit to the pushbutton mechanism and the individual button lights with new PVC-insulated wires.
I've placed orders for the needed wire, a fresh supply of .047 uF caps (I'm completely out of these), and a motor start cap for the volume control motor.
Wish me luck, folks...this will not be an easy job.
I've had this 41-616 since 2010. As is the case with many of my sets, it has been sitting, patiently waiting for me to do something with it...
When I acquired this set, it had no tubes, and was missing its original 3-post De Luxe Inter-Mix changer. Some nondescript 1950s changer was placed in the phono compartment...and I do mean placed...not bolted in, just sitting on the motor board.
I plan to install a rebuilt 1942 Beam of Light changer that has been converted to 78 rpm (only) rim drive. The 1942 changer has a solenoid to trip the reject mechanism; this will allow the Mystery Control as well as the far right pushbutton to reject records as it was originally designed.
Anyway...earlier this week, I pulled the huge chassis out and set it on the workbench.
I removed the dial scale and put it away, not to be replaced until the chassis is finished.
As you can see, there are no tubes...but the tube shields are all there in the Mystery Control section of the chassis.
Bob (bandersen), I think the chassis in my set is a bit more crowded than your 41-316 chassis is...
If you notice, many of the original paper caps were replaced, mostly with turquoise Sangamo caps, and a few with black Cornell Dubilier caps. This was probably done in the late 1950s or early 1960s.
The original electrolytics were also replaced with Twist-Lock electrolytics. One was installed well, on a phenolic mounting board; the other was just sort of stuck in an existing hole in a sloppy fashion.
Lots and lots of rubber-covered wiring under the chassis.
Oh, and surprisingly, the audio output transformer is still good! These are often bad in the 1939-1942 models.
I've decided that instead of resleeving all of the wires with heat shrink tubing as I usually do, in this chassis I am going to replace the longer wires and the wiring harnesses running from the stepper unit to the pushbutton mechanism and the individual button lights with new PVC-insulated wires.
I've placed orders for the needed wire, a fresh supply of .047 uF caps (I'm completely out of these), and a motor start cap for the volume control motor.
Wish me luck, folks...this will not be an easy job.