Hi guys, I had a quick question for you all. I mainly collect early Philco consoles 1928-1934 and have always had one questions when I am ordering electrolytics for these old sets.
Can anybody tell me the general ball park of what voltage rating electrolytics were on these early consoles, mainly I am ordering parts for a 15X, 76, 86 Neutrodyne, and 80 Jr. Cathedral.
Is 500v safe, I am trying to get as close to the original mF value, I would rather have voltage higher than what is prescribed. Some of the values I find for sale don't go up to 630V, rather 500v or 400v for certin mF values that I am looking for.
Thanks
Jon
Hi All;
Jon, is that B1 or D1 (I can't tell from the picture) Telephone, in working order or is it just for Display with the other Radios ?? It looks nice, I have a D1 with a later Handset, that I use on a daily Basis..
THANK YOU Marty
Most Philco electrolytics that are across rectifiers and thus are exposed to the highest voltage and highest ripple current are rated 450V.
They are un fact a bit underrated as if you doo not load your rectifier the voltage acropss the ectrolytic cap may easily exceed the rated one by about 100V or so. However due to the fact that the rectiifier is a tube and the load is the tubes, they come up more or less at the same time and so the voltage across the cap is not exceeded, since as the rectifier starts to conduct so do other tubes.
So 450V is good enough and I use them.
Then again, when replacing the electrolytics, you can always read the values off them. Mine in 37-116, as well as in others, are original Philco caps and read 450V.
Last but not least: I recently wrote a thread about the ripple rating. To achieve a higher one I use lower voltage (such as 350V) double capacitance caps in series. As a result I achieve high ripple rating and as a bonus I have very high voltage rating. No matter what happens in that radio the voltage is not exceeding 700VDC. Kill two birds with one stone.
Quote:Hi All;
Jon, is that B1 or D1 (I can't tell from the picture) Telephone, in working order or is it just for Display with the other Radios ?? It looks nice, I have a D1 with a later Handset, that I use on a daily Basis..
THANK YOU Marty
Marty that is a working Western Electric D1 with a matching handset. I also have a 302 and a real old 40AL candlestick with ringer. I use all three, in fact I just called my Aunt from Wyoming on the D1 a hour ago, Western electric made amazing phones and the sound quality is second to non in my opinion.
Morzh, thanks for your reply that answers my questions, I went with 600v ratings for the electrolytics on a Philco 80 Jr. I will be restoring soon after I can finalize this 71B that has been giving me so much trouble lately.
Thanks
Jon
Inexpensive as they are, no problems subbing a couple of 450 volt caps in series if there is any doubt belt and suspender mode. If you need 22 mfd for example, two identical 47 mfds in series would be just fine. Bleeder/load resistors let's say 220 K 1 watt on each leg are optional, good of you to add a fuse too, lest this thread continues until it snows again.
Thank you Codefox1, I usually go 600v but will remember that I can put them in series, I did not know that.
Jon
The model 76 and 86 do not use electrolytic caps they used large paper capacitors. In the case of the 76 and 86 I would try to get 630 volt poly film capacitors as replacements. On most AC sets 450 vdc is about what you need for electrolytic caps.
Regards
Arran
Thank you Arran, didn't know they had paper caps. Does that mean they are dry electrolytics? I had heard from several people that dry electrolytics don't usually go bad, do they?
No they are not electrolytic capacitors, dry or wet, they are very large paper capacitors. When the model 76 and 86 were built electrolytic capacitors were not available so they used large paper capacitors of between 1 and 3 mfd and used extra filter chokes in the power supply to get rid of the AC ripple. In the case of Philco they used these in most sets built between 1928 and 30 and mounted them inside a tar filled can located somewhere on the chassis. They can be replaced by small electrolytics of course but the poly film substitutes are only about $2 a piece and they will last many decades without having to be replaced again.
Regards
Arran
Thanks Arran, I figure here in a few month I will dive in the 76 first. I don't know why I but I am nervous to start on the 86 since it is a Neutrodyne. Do I need to watch out for anything when working on the Neutrodyne?
Jon
Left hand in pocket unless of other persuatsion, and feet on a triple dry rubber chair, and power to the room and all recepticles Dead proved by an all way-killl-plug and power cord cut and responsibly recycled.
But I really like my Neutrodyne. I hope I don't have to do that.
Jon
With WECo phones, the handset carries the type number in an alpha-numeric style, such as 'D1' or 'E1'.
The phone model itself is ALWAYS numeric, as in 202, 302, 2500, eTc.
Just to set the record straight, from an old time Bell guy.
Dennis
Thanks Dennis it is a Western Electric 202. The 40AL I have works but when someone calls in the ringer does not sound nor does the lever with the ball on it move to ring the ringer. I wonder how I can fix it, could it be a bad condenser.
Jon