37-116 Band-switch question
In looking at the Rider’s schematic of the 37-116, the band-switch position illustrations seem to indicate some of the tabs (which are viewed from the rear according to the schematic) are on the (front) side of the switch wafer not visible. The ones that seem to be so are:
Wafer A: A10
Wafer B: B4, B5, B6
Wafer C: C4, C10, C11
Wafer D: D3, D9, D11
Wafer E: E4, E5, E6
Wafer F: F2, F6, F8
Wafer G: none
Wafer H: H7, H11
Wafer I: none
Wafer J: J4, J5, J6, J9, J11, J12
My questions are, do I have them all identified correctly? Are there any omissions or any that are wrong in the list above?
Thanks in advance.
I do not have a 37-116 yet, but am considering one. I want to make sure I understand the schematics and parts diagrams first before tackling a repair.
Does the set under consideration have issues with the bandswitch?? For the most part if the BS is bad it's a big deal to get to it as it's buried in the RF sub chassis. If it's OK then I just assume that it's doing it's thing and not be too concerned about it. You may want to drop Chuck a note and get the factory service information this may shed some light on the positions of BS.
The 37-116 is a wonderful set with excellent fidelity!! Too bad there's not much to listen to that will show quality that is in this set.
Hope you get it! Once it's been serviced you won't be disappointed with it's performance!
There are a number of folks here that have done the service work on this set. I did one about 30yrs ago. I picked up another 37-116 but this one is code 121 about a year ago. It's on my long list to get it serviced. Most of the 37-116 are code 122 known as the deluxe model. The code 121 is the standard (no dial presets and has a shadow meter). Mike (Morzh) just finished his set a month or so ago. He's VERY HAPPY with his set.
GL and hope you get it or one!
Terry
I have worked on a lot of these, I used the Rider's to check the switch positions/contacts, especially on the first one I did. Had no problems with Rider's. I was trying to figure out why there was no RX on band 2. Open oscillator coil, as I have seen on every unit since. Something about the construction of that coil that causes it to corrode.
I would not worry about the switch until it proves to be a problem which is not extremely likely.
You will not be able to predict all possible problems, so if you buy one in a decent condition, just go with it.
I prefer it this way.
Of course pre-screening is important: if a set looks like it was under water for a few years, don buy it - the band switch is likely not to work
and so are many other things.
I do not have one of these sets, so I am not trying to correct a problem. I am planning to get one of these sets when one becomes available. I am trying to make sure that my schematic is correct if and when I get a set to restore. The schematic I had was poor copy and difficult to read. I think I have the switch tabs mentioned in my first post correct unless I could not read the Rider's schematic correctly. I just wanted someone with a good copy of the schematic to look at their copy and see if the switch tabs that I identified are indeed the ones that are on the front side of the wafers according to their schematic (they are shown with dashed lines on the schematic).
Thanks for responding.
I was able to get by with Rider's copy (and no, it is not extremely legible to put it very mildly) - you could always get a good copy of just about anything Philco from Chuck Schwark at Philco repair bench.