The PHILCO Phorum

Hey all,

I have been trying to restore these chassis myself and have been doing good but I have hit a wall on this one and have not even started.

Some lazy person decided to recap this radio without re-stuffing anything.
They soldered everything on top and even cut off a few terminals.

First is 4989-AK, I am using 4989-ODG and it calls for (2) .09 or .1 caps at terminals 1-3 and 1-5. The problem is that the person cut off terminal 3 so there is nothing attached to it. then he overheated terminal 5 and it detached from the block. that I can deal with but when he fixed it he only put on one .05 cap from terminal 1 to terminal 5.
Do I just do what they did since he probably jerry-rigged something?

7625-H is a one .006 cap. I am using 7625-SU and it says terminals 1+3 but terminal 3 is clean and not used. Only terminals 1+2 were soldered to?
What di I do there?

Next are the electrolytics, one 8 and one 4. Is it bad to replace with 2 10uf's or should I use a 10 and a 4.7

They used 2 8uf caps and I cant seem to find which should be the 8 and which should be the 4. Still not reading the schematics very well.

Last is the .01 bypass condenser. Can I just put in a .01 cap?


http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByModel...013875.pdf

Kirk

Hi Kirk
Sounds like you need to scare up some bakelite blocks to replace the boogered up ones. By replacing the damaged block it will neaten up the chassis. On the filters a pair of 10mfd@450v will be fine. On the 84 it is not uncommon to find a number of bad resistors and open ant & osc coils. Do a quick search here on the phorum to find fixes.
GL
Terry
ps May have to come up and pay you a friendly visit. How far are you from Philly?

From the look of the replacement caps I would guess it was "repaired" pre 70's. Back then they were not thinking of preservation they just wanted it to work.

I think 10uF is fine for 8uF as the first cap. It will step up the B+ a bit nut not too much.
The second cap does not matter much if it s more than 4uF. Could be 10uF also.
The 1st cap if you want to be perfectly within the voltage specs could be made closer to 8uF by paralleling smaller values or serializing two 16uF caps (many say you should also equalize them but I simply use two 450V one and then you are fine or so I think).

Kirk,
WJoe should have 8uf e-caps.
Henry

I have the right caps from Wjoe but it is the block wiring I am having issues with.

is it normal to have a cap going to terminal 1 and 2 but have nothing else attached to terminal 2?

where can I buy empty blocks to replace the ones that are fudged?

Sometimes epay but bumming from good folks here might be quicker. Don't know if you need a pic of the underside of the chassis to figure out which way the terminals need to face.
Terry

Is terminal 2 grounded?

Thanks, I was gonna post but I just rigged the blocks with brass and ripped out all the wires and started over. I had to dismantle my 84 and rewired this one according to the original.
Ran new speaker wires too since by the time I was done they were falling apart.

I am surprised that no one sells the blocks on sleezebay.

Only issue is the .01 bypass condenser that was not on my 84.
I did not touch it yet so if anyone knows if I should just replace it with a regular .01, or just leave it, or remove it.... let me know
It is in the upper left corner attached to the vol pot.

What does that .01 uF cap connect to? Does it go to the volume control itself or to the AC power switch behind it?

If it connects to the switch it's the AC line bypass and should be replaced with a safety rated cap.

I believe it is to the back of the pot so i am guessing it is the bypass. plus the paper label says bypass on it. I think I have .047 safety caps but no .01... add it to the list!

I tell ya, I bought loads of caps and even now I still come up with one in almost every radio that I don't have. A .5 1000v for my halli S40-B, .01 1000v for my BA-41, .02 1200v for my westinghouse and this one. What a pain...

A lot of block caps had a unused third terminal which was many times used as a tie point for unrelated components which only adds to the obfuscation. You can usually gut the block caps and restuff them, threads here and elsewhere for how-to.