42-1008P Stain *Cabinet Done* - Printable Version
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42-1008P Stain *Cabinet Done* - Edisla - 11-10-2014
My cabinet is pretty worn out but I can see different tones on it. I'm guessing it should be as follows...
Pic is not my radio ;)
[Image: http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b519/Edisla/42-1008_Stain_zps6bdd53d6.jpg]
A - Darkest
B - lighter (B at bottom looks to cover the top two ribs)
C - Lightest
Am I close?
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Ron Ramirez - 11-11-2014
I've said it before and I'll say it again: You will never achieve the proper shades on a radio cabinet with stain!
You must use tinted (toning) lacquer to properly replicate the original finish. This is what the factories used "back in the day".
I would use Medium Walnut (the dye version) for B and C; Perfect Brown for A.
Mohawk Ultra Classic. A Bing or Google search will turn up several online vendors of the stuff.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Edisla - 11-11-2014
(11-11-2014, 07:12 AM)Ron Ramirez Wrote: I've said it before and I'll say it again: You will never achieve the proper shades on a radio cabinet with stain!
You must use tinted (toning) lacquer to properly replicate the original finish. This is what the factories used "back in the day".
I would use Medium Walnut (the dye version) for B and C; Perfect Brown for A.
Mohawk Ultra Classic. A Bing or Google search will turn up several online vendors of the stuff.
Toner sure I didn't really think stain would work so well. Just used it in the title.
So am I correct though that this thing should have 3 different tones to it?
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Ron Ramirez - 11-11-2014
Sorry to be so harsh in my initial response...but too many folks just won't listen when we tell them that tinited lacquer is far superior to stains & polyurethane.
Polyurethane is best left to boats and other marine items, fine furniture requires lacquer. 
In spite of my harsh reply, though, please re-read it. I mentioned only needing two different dye lacquers for the areas you pointed out.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Edisla - 11-11-2014
No prob at all just having a hard time believing that there are not 3 diff tones.
Then again this thing could have been redone wrong at some point.
I clearly see dark on top, lighter, then lightest.
Heck I don't know. Maybe this is supposed to be one tone all the way around.
Just trying to figure it out
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Edisla - 11-11-2014
Maybe I should get some good clear close ups and post.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Eric Adams - 11-12-2014
I don't know Edisla, but if Mr. Philco tells me something about a Philco, I listen. But that's me
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Warren - 11-12-2014
Remember you can use toned laquer on different woods and the darkness will be different depending on what kind of wood is underneath and the darkness of the wood. If you used the same toner on the top shoulder and the lower part right below it there could be a bit of difference in the darkness. I would definiteley believe what Ron says about the colors on it he has been dong this stuff for a very long time and knows his stuff. If yuo tone the two 2 sections like he said and the middle sections with the lighter toner as he says you will have colors that are closest to original. Also, when toning if you think a part needs to be a bit darker, all you do is put another coat on.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Eric Adams - 11-12-2014
If you take a good look at the photo, you'll see a large shadow going across the radio. That could be the different shades that Edisla is seeing.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Edisla - 11-12-2014
(11-12-2014, 03:09 PM)Warren Wrote: Remember you can use toned laquer on different woods and the darkness will be different depending on what kind of wood is underneath and the darkness of the wood. If you used the same toner on the top shoulder and the lower part right below it there could be a bit of difference in the darkness. I would definiteley believe what Ron says about the colors on it he has been dong this stuff for a very long time and knows his stuff. If yuo tone the two 2 sections like he said and the middle sections with the lighter toner as he says you will have colors that are closest to original. Also, when toning if you think a part needs to be a bit darker, all you do is put another coat on.
I'm not sure what this wood is. I was assuming walnut.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Ron Ramirez - 11-12-2014
There are many difference species of walnut, and there are also different "cuts" of veneer (referring to how it was cut from the logs). Arran can fill you in on all of that. Just remember what Warren said, different types of veneer will look different even when toned with the same color of toning lacquer.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Arran - 11-13-2014
I should also point out that you can very the darkness of a given part of the cabinet just by spraying on more coats of tinted lacquer. The veneered portions with figured grain were usually just coated over to even out the colour more so then darkening it. The solid wood portions were usually made out of a cheaper white or blond wood like poplar so they would darken those more, like around the base of this console for example, or the molding around the top.
Regards
Arran
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Edisla - 02-15-2015
So do I still stain the entire radio and then hit up the areas w/ toner where needed or do I only toner those areas?
RE: 42-1008P Stain - sam - 02-15-2015
heres you answer
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#2
11-11-2014, 08:12 am
I've said it before and I'll say it again: You will never achieve the proper shades on a radio cabinet with stain!
You must use tinted (toning) lacquer to properly replicate the original finish. This is what the factories used "back in the day".
I would use Medium Walnut (the dye version) for B and C; Perfect Brown for A.
Mohawk Ultra Classic. A Bing or Google search will turn up several online vendors of the stuff.
RE: 42-1008P Stain - Edisla - 02-15-2015
Ok so then NOTHING gets stain?
I was assuming overall stain and then tone after. Just trying to learn.