MERSHON condenser rebuild - Printable Version

+- The PHILCO Phorum (https://philcoradio.com/phorum)
+-- Forum: Philco Radio Discussions (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=5)
+--- Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=8)
+--- Thread: MERSHON condenser rebuild (/showthread.php?tid=15111)

---

RE: MERSHON condenser rebuild - Tubesforme - 08-03-2016

(08-02-2016, 01:38 PM)Phlogiston Wrote:  Use a socket to support the plastic threaded base - a deep 3/8" drive 5/8' is about right. This allows the threaded rod to go through the socket driver hole. Use a hammer to drive the rod out of the base. Use some WD-40. I have taken a lot of these out of the base this way.

I tried a socket and it looks like a good support. I also soaked the threaded rod in WD-40 all night. I still was unable to budge it this morning (using a hammer on the inside top of the post). There isn't enough of the rod, on the inside of the capacitor to be able to drill a small hole and use a bolt. On the inside of the base it looks like there is a round washer like device attached to the threaded terminal. By the way, I have a second copper Mershon and it does not have a nut embedded in the bottom of the base. Both capacitors have the very same part number stamped on the top. I am going to try to open that one and see if there is a difference between the two. Thanks guys.

---

RE: MERSHON condenser rebuild - Phlogiston - 08-04-2016

You are pushing the rod from what was the outside towards what was the inside - tap on the threaded end?

---

RE: MERSHON condenser rebuild - Tubesforme - 08-04-2016

Thank you all for the suggestions. I was able to thread the stud out, from the inside, after I soaked both ends of the stud, for three days. Everyday I would spray a little WD-40 on both ends of the stud. Now that it is out I see the nut is molded into the base for a reason. That is what holds the stud in place. I have threaded a new bolt down in the studs place. For the ground I am going to drill a small hole in the base, near the side and use a piece of #14 copper electric wire and wrap it once around the capacitor insulated mounting post. The rest of the job is easy, just attach the positive end of the replacement capacitor to the bolt and solder the ground end to the copper wire then epoxy the base back onto the can. Now with this experience the next one will be easier. I got a bit to impatient. I had expected the stud to screw right out of the base. These are the things that make me miss my dad and his years, from the late 20's to the 60's in repairing electronic equipment. It is a site such as this one which really helps out. Again, thanks guys.

---