Restoring Philco model 87 - Printable Version
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Re: Restoring Philco model 87 - wendell - 07-08-2011
Thanks for the info on the tube..I am going to be careful with anything I do with this radio to make sure that anything I do is reversable. I am patient, I don't mind scouting around looking for original parts, but I do want to hear it play.
Wendell
Re: Restoring Philco model 87 - wendell - 07-08-2011
Ron, or anyone that has a minute
On the schematic that you linked, the filter block diagram was a big help. The block layout corresponds to the bottom of the filter block exactly. This makes a big enough difference that even I understand it. I have one question for you. If you have time to look at the schematic, there are (2) .015mf caps, but they don't indicate polarity. Are those not electrolytic caps?
Re: Restoring Philco model 87 - Ron Ramirez - 07-08-2011
No, the .015 caps were originally paper as were all of the caps in that can. You can use .015 uF yellow metalized film caps to replace them, and they do not have any polarity.
Re: Restoring Philco model 87 - wendell - 07-08-2011
Thanks again for the help. Hopefully that's the last question. I'm optimistic that this thing's gonna play soon.
Wendell
Re: Restoring Philco model 87 - Radioroslyn - 07-11-2011
Wendell,
As I mentioned in my pm I just p/u a model 87.
Being the daredevil that I am I plugged her in
and gave her juice. Everything seems OK but
voltage are way down so it going to get the
filter bank rebuilt. Started in on that but noticed
it takes a lot of heat to get the solder joints
apart. If you cut the wires they'll be too short
to resolder. Just thought I'd mention it to you,
I'll need a least a 60W iron. That will just about
do the job with saying too much bad words.
100W job would be even better. Forget a little
30W shady o rack.
Terry
Re: Restoring Philco model 87 - codefox1 - 07-11-2011
I make sure my iron is well tinned, and I cheat a little by melting a tiny amount of fresh rosin core solder on the tip just before touching whatever I want to create a joint. Of course you should ideally first create a clean and patent mechanical joint which would withstand not being soldered. I like a 40 watt pencil dimmered down a bit, but use the Weller Gun when I'm in a rush, or there is a whole lot of stuff to join. Got a Weller big boy somewhere, and that is just short of a propane torch once you get the tip tightened.
Nobody knows if the original production line people were paid, sometimes it seems like by the pound for solder. It's actually difficult to re-create those blobs with anything available today. higher temperature, different eutectic, anyone?
Speaking of which, please dispose of the waste you dig out of terminals, etc... responsibly especially if it's more than just a little. It's OK to keep it in a jar and turn it in as lead/tin whenever this is done where you live.