40-216 restoration questions - Printable Version
+- The PHILCO Phorum (https://philcoradio.com/phorum)
+-- Forum: Philco Radio Discussions (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=5)
+--- Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=8)
+--- Thread: 40-216 restoration questions (/showthread.php?tid=17377)
+- The PHILCO Phorum (https://philcoradio.com/phorum)
+-- Forum: Philco Radio Discussions (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=5)
+--- Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=8)
+--- Thread: 40-216 restoration questions (/showthread.php?tid=17377)
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 10-25-2017
So from what I have found through previous posts here #95 is actually an electrolytic but Philco changed it to NP at some point.
I already put in a 16uf 250v electrolytic, it should be ok then at least for a while?
As far as #88 goes I'm checking what I have to make a NP cap.
So far the best match I have found are two 80uF/40v. I think the V is to low though according to some calculations I've seen in threads. Would the resulting V for the two caps together be lower, like around 24v?
I also have two 47uF/100v but then I'm dropping the capacitance to 23.5uF
Trying to work with what I have. :\
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 10-27-2017
Slow on the feedback these days
How about these?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112380229987?rmvSB=true
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 10-31-2017
How about this one.
Which side should the Neutral/Hot of the power cord go?
The HOT side gets a fuse if I add, correct?
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - morzh - 10-31-2017
Yes typically the hot side gets the fuse.
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Joeztech - 11-01-2017
Edisla;
I noticed the same issue when I restored my 40-201. Your 40-216 is similar with the thumb-wheel controls. Philco did not design in detents on these models because it apparently caused too much resistance to rotation of the knobs. I had even taken some detent ball bearings from another radio to install in the Philco only to discover there was no way to cause the ball bearing to be retained and had to drop the idea. The bandswitch action is sort of sloppy, but does work OK. This issue is seen on all the models with the thumb-wheel bandswitch knobs.
Joe
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Joeztech - 11-01-2017
Edisla;
The 30uF capacitor you are wondering about is a non-polarized electrolytic so that it can be used in and AC circuit. The motor in question is an AC powered motor which gets its voltage from a transformer and there are no rectifiers changing the power from that transformer to DC, so that is why they used a non-polarized capacitor. Do not try to use a single electrolytic with just a positive and negative lead attached across the AC to the motor. It will overheat and likely explode! To make a non-polarized electrolytic from two conventional DC type electrolytics you either connect two of them together by tying the two negative leads together OR tie two positive leads together and make connections to the motor using the two wires from the free end leads of the two capacitors. It is safer and usually takes up less space to just buy an AC rated motor run capacitor of the right capacitance. A film type capacitor made for AC service at 115-130VAC will work fine at 30VAC that the motor appears to operate at.
Joe
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - morzh - 11-01-2017
Two electrolytics simply connected back to back do not make a NP cap. The center pin has to be biased as otherwise you still run AC voltage through two polarized caps. In case of this motor, which is (did not look at the sch but sure it is the case) decoupled via any DC bias through the transformer, you do not have any suitable voltage to hook up to, so the two caps solution won't work.
But unless I am mistaken, the cap is across the secondary winding of the motor which may give out low voltage. Why don't you measure it first.
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 11-03-2017
I have not done any power up yet.
That is the last cap I am needing to replace before I go with power up.
Should I do power bring up with the old cap disconnected and not work the motor and if all goes well check the voltage you are asking about?
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - morzh - 11-03-2017
Yes. I'd do the radio first, and then when all is playing, start on the turntable.
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 11-03-2017
No turntable on this one ;)
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - morzh - 11-04-2017
Well, whatever the motor does
It rotates sonething
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 11-05-2017
Turns the Volume up/down and unit Off.
Radio is powered up. I left the original cap but only get buzzing from motor at this point. It's not turning. Does turn by hand.
Have new cap on order.
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 11-06-2017
Did the back to back caps since I figured with the buzzing that the cap was bad and it works. Motor turns now.
Once the correct cap comes in the mail I'll swap it out. For now I have powered down and will continue with replacing wiring.
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Edisla - 11-07-2017
Is 22 gauge stranded wire to small to use for the power transformer leads?
Original looks a bit bigger but I only have 22 on hand :\
RE: 40-216 restoration questions - Radioroslyn - 11-07-2017
I would go a little heavier on the primary and heater leads 18-20ga.