The PHILCO Phorum
Philco 39-30 restoration - Printable Version

+- The PHILCO Phorum (https://philcoradio.com/phorum)
+-- Forum: Philco Radio Discussions (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=5)
+--- Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=8)
+--- Thread: Philco 39-30 restoration (/showthread.php?tid=4258)

Pages: 1 2 3 4

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Arran - 03-04-2012

(03-04-2012, 02:26 AM)bandersen Wrote:  I love that inlay too Icon_smile

The radio came with replacement electrolytics. I found the original part #s, did a web search and, amazingly, found someone selling a couple Icon_thumbup

Check out the bulge in the one on the right. I wonder if it was made that way or did that much pressure build up inside ?

I'm going to be restuffing them using Syl's technique.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6951230103_636c5661a4_z.jpg]

I also sprayed on the first coat of gloss lacquer.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7197/6951230277_5983e50d3a_z.jpg]

That cabinet touchup and recoat of lacquer has really enhanced the maquetry on that bottom rail, I didn't even notice those horizontal bands at either end. One thing I will say about the 1939 sets is that Philco thankfully dumped that awful faux finish on all but their cheapest sets.
Regards
Arran

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-04-2012

Yes, it's a nice touch. Here's a better look.
I also have a 37-60 with that miserable photo finish.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7070/6805254510_44bb90b46e_z.jpg]


RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Ron Ramirez - 03-04-2012

Bob

If you mean the bulge at the top of the can, nearly every Philco aluminum can electrolytic I've ever seen was bulged at the top like that...including some that still had the liquid electrolyte inside, and were still operating with no hum. (I restuffed them anyway. I'm not taking any chances on using 70+ year old electrolytics in a radio that is going to be placed back into operation.)

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-04-2012

Thanks for the info. Ive seen a few that were bulging at the top too. I just thought it was odd to get two caps that came out of the same radio to have different construction.

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-04-2012

I'm still fighting with one issue. There's a really loud buzzing all through the broadcast band. It mostly fades away when a strong station is tuned in. SW band is fine. All the specified tube voltages match the service info.

I've replaced every paper and mica cap except for the triple stacked one inside the 2nd IF can. It's a sandwich of 100pF, 100pF and a variable made from exposed sheets of mica. I hope I don't have to mess with it.

Perhaps it's feedback or an AVC issue ?

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-05-2012

Grounding the chassis did the trick Icon_biggrin The interference isn't completely gone, but it's greatly reduced and no worse than any of my other radios.

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Arran - 03-06-2012

(03-05-2012, 11:47 PM)bandersen Wrote:  Grounding the chassis did the trick Icon_biggrin The interference isn't completely gone, but it's greatly reduced and no worse than any of my other radios.
Now that I think about it that makes sense since both line capacitors and all of the coil and tube shields go to the chassis, without a proper ground the line caps would basically be open circuit. On an AC/DC set like that black Admiral you tried the line capacitor is connected across both legs of the power line. On an AC/DC set you obviously can't connect a ground to the set so they used the next best thing by connecting a cap between hot and neutral, neutral is often still above ground but it's still closer then the hot side.
Regards
Arran


RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-06-2012

I just tried running the set off an isolation transformer and the noise was reduced just as much. Also, grounding the chassis has no effect.

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Arran - 03-06-2012

(03-06-2012, 01:40 AM)bandersen Wrote:  I just tried running the set off an isolation transformer and the noise was reduced just as much. Also, grounding the chassis has no effect.

I thought it did have an effect according to your last post? Maybe the isolation transformer has an electrostatic shield in it that would help?
Still I hate interference, all of this electronic junk (including computers and CFL) is not supposed to make RF noise and be FCC approved, of course that doesn't stop the Chinese from faking labels and getting it on the market anyhow.
Regards
Arran

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-06-2012

Sorry. I meant that when using the isolation transformer, grounding the chassis didn't seem to have as much effect. When running the radio straight from the wsll outlet, grounding the chassis helps a lot. I guess I'll have to run a wire from the GND screw on the back to a ground point somewhere in my place when I use it.



RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Arran - 03-06-2012

(03-06-2012, 05:30 AM)bandersen Wrote:  Sorry. I meant that when using the isolation transformer, grounding the chassis didn't seem to have as much effect. When running the radio straight from the wsll outlet, grounding the chassis helps a lot. I guess I'll have to run a wire from the GND screw on the back to a ground point somewhere in my place when I use it.

This is just a thought but have you tried piggy backing a pair of other caps across the line capacitors to increase the values? At least you figured out that it was power line noise and not something like a wire routed in the wrong place or an open ground connection.
Regards
Arran


RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-07-2012

Oh yes, I'm very happy that it's working. So many other things could have gone wrong like the hacked up power and output transformers.

I took a whack at retuffing the can caps tonight. I was surprised at how easy it was to cut them open with just a sharp utility knife and gently rolling action. Even more surprised at how much liquid came out. I'm glad I had some napkins handy!
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7042/6960803963_9d103e0a2d_z.jpg]

[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7043/6960804125_705500af57_z.jpg]


I soldered on some extension wires and threaded them through the hole at the bottom. Then popped the tops back up, mounted and wired them in.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7046/6814690600_4ec1504ccf_z.jpg]

That just leaves one non Philco cap. Anyone have a spare 30-2330 (8mfd, 400v) ? Or anything close that would fit.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7047/6960804853_e688bc5ea2_z.jpg]


RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-13-2012

It's pushing 80 in my attic so I'm able to spray in mid march. Crazy!
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6980625249_398146fe33_z.jpg]

RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Arran - 03-13-2012

(03-13-2012, 08:17 PM)bandersen Wrote:  It's pushing 80 in my attic so I'm able to spray in mid march. Crazy!
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7202/6980625249_398146fe33_z.jpg]

I heard that on the NHK news of all places that it was on the warm side in the Mid West lately. Around here winter is refusing to let go, we had a late winter storm with 60 mph winds and and rain, taking out trees and store signs. The power was off for 1/2 the day yesterday, in some areas it's still off.
Regards
Arran


RE: Philco 39-30 restoration - Bob Andersen - 03-16-2012

Three 80s in a row in Chicago! Normally, I'd be doing a lot of soldering this time of year instead of refinishing.

Almost done. Just waiting on some mica caps and for the lacquer to cure. Then I'll affix the new plastic dial face and grille cloth.
[Image: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/6842745640_cc4d102c69_z.jpg]