Philco 39-116 radio and remote - Printable Version
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RE: Philco 39-116 radio and remote - RichG - 11-06-2024
Hello,
Thanks for the replies, everyone! I feel a bit foolish for not thinking about how transformers are actually constructed (probably comes from never taking one apart). In my defense, I did say rewinding transformers was not in my wheelhouse.
The explanations made perfect sense. I feel better about looking for a replacement transformer, knowing I'm not limited to radios but can include TVs. I did try to bring up the original transformer on a variac. When I got to around 20 V or so, the transformer started to hum and get warm, so I gave up. It is definitely toast (no pun intended).Brad, I totally get finishing one project before moving on to the next!!
Thank you everyone1
Rich
RE: Philco 39-116 radio and remote - Arran - 11-13-2024
With regard to the 39-116, (at least the U.S versions) I believe that they used rubber/gutta percha wire for the leads, which of course can rot or break down causing shorts to ground, much like the old A.K transformers can, so if someone powers one up without inspecting or replacing these leads beforehand, transformer failure is a possibility.
As for viable replacements it may also be worth looking through the selection of power transformers intended for guitar amps, such as what AES has available. You will have to find out the specs of the transformer in the 39-116, add up all of the currents of the tube heaters, rectifier winding is separate, and the voltage and current of the H.V winding.
Regards
Arran
RE: Philco 39-116 radio and remote - RichG - 11-15-2024
Hi Arran,
Yep, my 39-116 has a fair bit of the rubber wiring that has deteriorated. The worst is the wiring for the station lamps. I was planning on replacing it all anyway. As for the transformer, it is a 32-8001. The specs in the Philco parts catalog indicate it has a 6.4V 5A supply for the tubes and station lights, a 5V 2A supply for the 80 rectifier, and the 750VCT winding will handle 130 ma. The filament winding is running fairly close to its limit, if I remember it was around 4.2A. The thyratron has its own 2V 2.5A transformer. I had not thought of checking guitar amp transformers. Thanks for the suggestion.
Rich
RE: Philco 39-116 radio and remote - RichG - 07-01-2025
Hello! It's been a long while since I posted anything on my 39-116 restoration. Just a quick update: I acquired a 39-55 chassis for parts and was able to remove some valuable parts specifically the channel changing switch and mechanism. After some cleaning and lubrication, the replacement works fine mechanically. Much better than the one on the 39-116 which is basically frozen in place. I have finally located a brand new Edcor transformer that has nearly the exact specs as the original Philco. Got the new transformer for very reasonable price. I have all the replacement caps on hand. I will have to go over the chassis for a thorough cleaning before I attempt component replacement. I did order some replacement tubes from Bob Dobush. Very fast service! I do have a new, smaller project, that I'm going to work on. I'm going to start a new post for that project.
RE: Philco 39-116 radio and remote - MrFixr55 - 07-25-2025
Hi Rich,
I think that it is better to continue with this thread when you post your progress.
I recently visited the Vanderbilt Museum which is nearby to me. The museum is the former summer mansion of William K Vanderbilt II, the great-grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt, the railroad tycoon. WK Vanderbilt was extremely wealthy, but in his office, instead of a Scott Philharmonic, Zenith Stratosphere, McMurdo-Silver or some other seriously expensive radio, he had -
A Philco 39-116RX!
Price in 1939 dollars was $198, compared to $750 to more than $1,500 for a Zenith Stratosphere, Scott Philharmonic or McMurdo Silver Masterpiece.
Pictured here. A beautiful cabinet!! Mystery Control box sitting on top, to left of flowers.
RE: Philco 39-116 radio and remote - DaleHCook - 07-26-2025
Because I don't recall seeing it, did you ever get a 4-pin connector for your battery replacement? If not, could you post a photo with a ruler next to it as a dimension reference? I have a couple of 4-pin battery sockets and you can have one if it is correct.