The PHILCO Phorum
Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 - Printable Version

+- The PHILCO Phorum (https://philcoradio.com/phorum)
+-- Forum: Philco Radio Discussions (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=5)
+--- Forum: Philco Electronic Restoration (https://philcoradio.com/phorum/forumdisplay.php?fid=8)
+--- Thread: Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 (/showthread.php?tid=11756)

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6


RE: Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 - Eliot Ness - 04-24-2015

(04-24-2015, 08:25 AM)markmokris Wrote:  ...... I know I got carried away with the escutcheon and shined it up too much?  But I like it.  I bought some stuff to age it a little bit, but I may leave it as is......
The cabinet looks very nice Icon_thumbup

If you age the escutcheon you could always polish it back if you don't like it.  It's not unusual for people to buy sets that have an escutcheon that is too shiny, so if you do age it share some pictures and the product that you used.


RE: Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 - Ron Ramirez - 04-24-2015

+1, yes, please do share.

Here's what I have done to "age" a polished escutcheon:

I spray it with Mohawk Extra Dark Walnut toning lacquer, let dry, then lightly polish only the highlights. Then, I go over it again with clear lacquer to protect it. This gives escutcheons such as the early brass 70 and 90 escutcheons an outstanding appearance where only the "SUPER HETERODYNE 7 (or 9)" and "PHILCO" along with the other highlights are bright, while the rest is dark.


RE: Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 - markmokris - 04-24-2015

Thanks guys.

I will try Ron's suggestion too.

Mark


RE: Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 - PAradiogeek - 04-25-2015

Beautiful!!
So what was the magic sauce that finally got it working well across the band?


RE: Restoring a Model 19 Code 126 - markmokris - 12-05-2015

I thought I would update with some new success I have had with my Model 19. I had it "working". The oscillator was working on most of the band, but would frequently cut out below 900. And this was ONLY with a dumb 2 ft. piece of wire connected to Pin 4, the cathode, of the 36 tube. If that hank of wire wasn't connected, it wouldn't oscillate at all. This wasn't right, but it was working.

I had rewound the ticker coil about a dozen times, had some success, but it never maintained oscillation across the band. I really thought I had the tickler correct (27 turns, 34 ga. wire, from clockwise from pin1, finishing at pin 2). With the last rewind, I just decided to leave it. I really thought I had it right. But it hasn't been working right.

I got lucky. At an antique mall, I found a Model 89 chassis, a real carcass, that I picked up for $10. It seemed to have the oscillator coil, and I thought "At least I can pull it and recheck my tickler winding on the 19 with an unmolested coil from an 89."

I checked my work against the tickler coil I observed from the 89. It was right on! (27 turns, 34 ga. wire, clockwise from pin 1, finishing at pin 2). But son-of-a-gun. The oscillator coil from the 89 carcass was NOT open! Every winding on the coil measured continuity!

So, I decided to just replace the oscillator coil (with my rewound tickler) on the 19 with the seemingly good specimen from the 89.

Darn!!! The thing works great now! The Model 19 is playing great across the band. No dumb wire hanging off pin 4 of the 36 tube. So I have success in that the set is working. I have no confidence I can rewind a Model 19/89 tickler coil. I tried at least a dozen times, but mine never worked.

One thing I noticed was that the ticker on the 89 good coil measured over 5 ohms, just like the schematic said. Mine rewound tickler coil never measured much more than 2 ohms. I know the resistance shouldn't matter, but something was different!

I have both, another Model 89 in my queue to restore, as well as another Model 19. I just love these cathedrals. So the drama will continue!

Mark K8KZ