Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - Printable Version
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+--- Thread: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! (/showthread.php?tid=6718)
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 08-29-2013
Hit a little snag...well, not so little.
I cannot 100% remember how to re-assemble the dial assembly.
That document that Ron pointed me to...well, it is for those privvy to the wisdon of Philco inner secrets. It is not really that good, it has no itemised diagram, and when thhey show a number you have to look for it in more tham one drawing, and vise versa, when they have an item on a diagram (not very readable unless you already know what's what) you have to look throughojut the text for it....does not work for me.
Also when I tried the dial I bought from RadioDaze, it does not fit the size of the hub by maybe 0.02". I tried the old hub - fits just fine.
Too anticipate the question wbout whether I bough the right dial (there are two) - yes, I bought the right one, the other is totally different. It is just a tad smaller. Not sure what to do.
I need a detailed instruction of how to put together the dial assembly, and this is not the one, at least fopr a person who never did it before.
I did put down my own diagram of what follows what, but the dial was broken in the first place so couple of steps may be missing through no fault of mine......
If anyone could point me to some detailed well-understandable set of instructions, I'd be eternally grateful.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 08-30-2013
OK,
Mechanically challenged though I am, I was able to assemble the dial assembly tonight.
My own diagram upon closer examination proved to be fairly accurate, the only thing that kept me from succeeding was the lack of understanding of the parts' interaction, both mechanical and electrical.
First I ground off the excess material off of the dial hub, I have to express my displeasure with the Daze's dial - it does not fit well and the material is not filed off easily - the Dremel stone barely has any effect on it, so it took me about 30 minutes of grinding and fitting, and regrinding and refitting.....
Then I also fixed the band pointer illumination disk, which was cracked and broken in several places, so I clear-taped what fell off and then used the old dials' chips to re-create missing pieces.
I also did not understand the orientation of a wide ring going between the band illumination disk and the dial. EVentually I realized the way it goes there.
Also I figured how the volume cutout switch works and after that everything was a snap.
Now it stands there on my table and I am able to operate the dial.
I may want to figure out how the preset tuning works just for the heck of it, I don't have much use for that, but would be interesting to put my local station on the auto-dial.
Now the main question - all those gaskets I have on the treble and On/Off switch shafts - where do they go?
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-02-2013
So, bought weatherstripping, tossed the felt, installed the speaker.
The speaker is missing one large bolt that holds it to the bars, will have to buy it also....forgot, just went to Lowes for weatherstripping....a forgetful head makes a weary pair of heels
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - Eric T - 09-02-2013
^^^
I do the same thing way too often.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - Radioroslyn - 09-02-2013
Would a few pics of the mounted speaker help???
Terry
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-02-2013
Terry
Of course, always good to have few more pics. I have mounted it by now, as the speaker itself is not that complex an animal - there is that felt that I use the weatherstrip instead, two bolts and two screws, at least that what it was when I got mine (with one bolt missing).
It is my understanding the speaker is not mounted to the speakerboard by the rim, and is only pressed against the felt strip due to the location of the mounting holes for the bolts on that horizontal bar, am I correct?
If you could provide me with some guidance as to the grommets - it would help a lot. Not sure what goes where.
I am champing at the bit to hear it play when fully assembled.
---------
On a different note, I was pleasantly surprised to see the magnetic tuning work. It grabs at a station and holds on to it.
What I do not understand is what those 4 lamps do when the mag. tuning is engaged. Whatever they light is behind the cabinet's front panel. Of course when I put the chassis in I might see something I am not seeing now.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - Radioroslyn - 09-02-2013
best I remember the spkr bolt to the cabinet cross brace with two 5/16 or 3/8 stove bolts. Those have a rounded head and on the back side of the head it is square. It locks into the square hole in the spkr bracket.
Grommets?? Not sure what you are talking about. There is a rubber part that fits under the chassis at the rear center( between chassis and cross brace on cabinet.
Hope this helps
Terry
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-02-2013
Terry
Yes the speaker bolt (the one I have) is with the round head and sqare neck and it gets locked in the square hole (I guiess they used a square drill bit, huh?) - I will need to buy the second one.
The rubber part - yes I am talking about those that fit between the chassis and the crossbar.
I am not sure how many of them go there, there are also no through holes in the crossbar where those round mill-outs are. (they remind a fig. 8 - two intersecting circles).
But there a severall various rubber parts - some of them are obviously too big to fit in between teh chassis and the crossbar.
I can take a pic.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - Radioroslyn - 09-02-2013
Here's a couple of pics I had on file of the '116 std.The deluxe was missing the hardware so I had to make the wooden pieces to mount it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/53710524@N06/6790421148/in/photostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/53710524@N06/6936535873/in/photostream/
Terry
ps you might have to look around as it didn't capture the pics I clicked on
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-02-2013
thanks Terry.
I guess I will have to post the pics of the pieces I have in mind.
Let me do just that.
Mike.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - BrendaAnnD - 09-02-2013
If I hadn't seen one with my own two eyes, I would never have believed there were such things as square drill bits. I'm STILL not sure how they work. (o)o)
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-02-2013
Brenda
The drill bit is a so-called Reuleaux triangle and if mounted in a special way that allows it to rotate off center it can make a hole that is practically square with minimally rounded corners. Looks linda like the rotor in Vankel engine except it is a bit different.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-02-2013
Here are some photos.
Rubber grommets or whatever you call them plus one pic of the speaker mounted.
All grommets
Closeup 1
Closeup 2
Closeup3
Speaker
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - Jamie - 09-03-2013
Morzh, I've never worked with your model, so keep in mind that I could be wrong. I think the two thick bushings probably go on the front of the chassis. Look for two metal posts sticking out on each side of the front of the chassis, and two holes in the cabinet. They cushion the front of the chassis up against the cabinet. The three smaller ones are for mounting the chassis. There should be holes in the board the chassis sits on. There should be four of them and the missing one may well be stuck in the cabinet. The other four, I am not sure about.
I am sure someone will speak up who knows for sure, but maybe my info will get you started.
RE: Restoring my 37-116. It plays now! - morzh - 09-03-2013
PuhPow
You are probably right.
I am not sure about the big ones - the holes seem to be a bit larger than those posts but could be still.
Both smaller and larger flatter ones fit in those mill-outs under the chassis, in the board, so they are probably to cushion the chassis. Why they need the holes...not sure, there are no through screws that go there as there are no through holes drilled, so it is just padding then and the screws go separately in some other place. I guess they did cushion the heck out of that chassis.....it's a heavy one.