Philco 37-660 Veneer Cracks - Printable Version

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+--- Thread: Philco 37-660 Veneer Cracks (/showthread.php?tid=1046)

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Philco 37-660 Veneer Cracks - Guest - 03-30-2008

The veneer on the front corners of the console cabinet are cracking on both the vertical and horizontal grain pieces. What are my options, if any, for repair?

Richard

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Re: Philco 37-660 Veneer Cracks - John L - 03-31-2008

rquam Wrote:The veneer on the front corners of the console cabinet are cracking on both the vertical and horizontal grain pieces. What are my options, if any, for repair?

Richard

Do you have any pictures of this radio and it's problems? Pictures really help.

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Re: Philco 37-660 Veneer Cracks - Guest - 04-01-2008

John L Wrote:Do you have any pictures of this radio and it's problems? Pictures really help.

My apologies for not including photos with the original post.

[Image: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275/requam/VeneerCracks3.jpg]

[Image: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275/requam/VeneerCracks2.jpg]

[Image: http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn275/requam/VeneerCracks1.jpg]

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- John L - 04-01-2008

I'm sure that there must be a better way, but I suppose you could apply a Titebond II PVA glue under the cracked veneer,and press it closed and clamp it.

The problem with thicker veneers is that if they don't adhere as easily as others. They can crack from loose adhesion underneath, of just FWT(fair wear and tear)

Here is what I would do. Since the finish is still on the surface, keep it there for now. Get some Titebond II, not the regular carpenters glue, and saturate the underlayment. then try to apply some pressure to the surface and clamp it . If that does not work all that well, you can come back, once the glue dries and apply a hot steam iron to it(use it at the silk, poly settings first). the Titebond will allow you to iron the veneer to the substrate, so you will be able to get a lot of it to glue down. After you get it all down, lightly sand smooth, and reapply a finish to the edges.

I have ironed veneer on substrates before, and it works well with Titebond II. The nice thing about Titebond II is that it dries in pretty much the shade of the wood you are applying it to. Don't try Titebond III, because it is much darker and dries VERY dark, which you don't want.

Give it a try, it may work well too. Never can tell. Keep us posted and don't forget to take pictures.

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