40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Printable Version
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40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - mgambuzza - 11-02-2014
Now that I've finished the chassis (I believe), its time for the cabinet. The last annoyance - intermittent volume seemed to be resolved by removing each loctal and sanding the pins (some corrosion found on them) and reinserting them. Now seems to consistently turn on with volume and no issues.
I'm hoping I can do most of the cabinet work with minimal stripping or sanding - the base I know I'll have to strip and sand for best appearance. I was wondering what the proper Mohawk Toners/stains that I should be ordering for the base and other pieces that would use toner. I was also wondering if I need to strip and sand the top surface, which would likely mean I would have to get down to the dial and knob area for matching purposes. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The buttons. I ordered, received and installed and was very satisfied with the look. There is one issue though. When I push a button, the one that pops up launches like a wine colored projectile at me. I tried pressing down individually to have them hold in place but no luck. Is there an adhesive I should be looking at to prevent this?
Finally I think the same monster that leaves me with one sock short everytime I do the wash also eats the felt strip with holes in my Philcos. I've had a few of these Philcos and I've only had one of the three that still had one - although it was in poor condition. Any idea of a source for the felt with holes?
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Arran - 11-04-2014
I think that you may have to strip the top and the control panel, the lacquer on top looks like it's dead and flaking off due to water damage, plus it looks like there is a burn mark, trying to touch up things like that never looks quite right, you may want to strip the shoulder sections on top as well, for similar reasons. It's a common problem with any old console that was left to the clutches of silly housewives who insisted on putting potted plants on top of radio cabinets, or from drinkers and smokers using the radio cabinet as a bar top and or ashtray. Now if you are careful you can strip around the decals to save them, though they are readily available from Radio Daze. To get those panels to match the rest you will have to use a light walnut tone spray, the dye based type, for the base of the cabinet it was either medium walnut or perfect brown, again dye based.
Regards
Arran
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Raleigh - 11-18-2014
I don't know of a source of the felt piece, but they're not too hard to make with a sharp X-Acto knife. You should be able to buy felt at a craft store or fabric store. The original felt is not very thick. The felt I used was a bit thicker and stiffer, just because I had it lying around.
The hole in the felt should be just barely big enough for the push button to slide through but too small for the flange at the bottom of the button. That should trap most of the light that leaks around the button. It might solve your wine-colored projectile problem, too. If not, you probably want some kind of adhesive that stays tacky or gummy to hold the button on its shaft. I'm not sure what kind of glue that would be. Maybe ask at an art or craft store.
Or maybe try to shim the button on tighter with a tiny bit of paper or something.
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Edisla - 11-21-2014
(11-18-2014, 01:04 AM)Raleigh Wrote: I don't know of a source of the felt piece, but they're not too hard to make with a sharp X-Acto knife. You should be able to buy felt at a craft store or fabric store. The original felt is not very thick. The felt I used was a bit thicker and stiffer, just because I had it lying around.
The hole in the felt should be just barely big enough for the push button to slide through but too small for the flange at the bottom of the button. That should trap most of the light that leaks around the button. It might solve your wine-colored projectile problem, too. If not, you probably want some kind of adhesive that stays tacky or gummy to hold the button on its shaft. I'm not sure what kind of glue that would be. Maybe ask at an art or craft store.
Or maybe try to shim the button on tighter with a tiny bit of paper or something.
I made a new felt piece for my 40-180.
You can find how I did it here if you want - http://antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=253316&start=100
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - klondike98 - 11-21-2014
Those wine colored push buttons can be warmed a little with a hair dryer. Ed at Renovated Radios has the following on his site: "NOTE: It helps to warm the end of the buttons with a hair dryer prior to installing them. Not too warm though or they will bend. Just soften them up enough to allow them to slip on easily."
I expect that the reverse would be true as well. A little warming and you could narrow them a bit for a tighter fit. You could also put a piece of paper over the metal and slide the button over that to give a little tighter fit. I'd avoid gluing it in case you wanted to take them back off.
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Edisla - 11-22-2014
You should strip it down all the way and start fresh. That is what I did.
I was scared the entire way through but it came out pretty nice for my first time w/ this type of cabinet.
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Edisla - 11-22-2014
My understanding is that unit had no tone to it. It should all have one look.
Mine had some brown paint in areas I had to remove and check for damage. Under those areas all was good.
Amazing thing is that while the lighting in the room changes throughout the day the look of the radio changes as well.
Pretty neat
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Arran - 11-22-2014
No, the whole cabinet was toned, at least lightly, with something close to light walnut Mohawk to even it out and make it all look the same. The darker areas are made out of poplar or other some cheap wood, they are NOT painted that's a darker shade of tinted lacquer used to make the whitish blond wood look more high end, in this case Mohawk medium walnut is the closest . If you want a factory original look then tinted lacquer is something you have to use, along with grain filler, unless you like the antique mall or garage sale special strip N' clearcoat look.
The other extreme is what one of the shill scam sellers on fleabay does, every radio he refinishes has the same fogged finish as a cheap guitar, regardless of make or model. If one of his his few real buyers (suckers) tries to resell sell such a set they will find out very quickly that their set was incorrectly restored and worth much less then what they paid, much like a 1963 Corvette painted neon orange.
Regards
Arran
RE: 40-180 Cabinet and Buttons - Edisla - 11-22-2014
(11-22-2014, 02:00 AM)Arran Wrote: No, the whole cabinet was toned, at least lightly, with something close to light walnut Mohawk to even it out and make it all look the same. The darker areas are made out of poplar or other some cheap wood, they are NOT painted that's a darker shade of tinted lacquer used to make the whitish blond wood look more high end, in this case Mohawk medium walnut is the closest . If you want a factory original look then tinted lacquer is something you have to use, along with grain filler, unless you like the antique mall or garage sale special strip N' clearcoat look.
The other extreme is what one of the shill scam sellers on fleabay does, every radio he refinishes has the same fogged finish as a cheap guitar, regardless of make or model. If one of his his few real buyers (suckers) tries to resell sell such a set they will find out very quickly that their set was incorrectly restored and worth much less then what they paid, much like a 1963 Corvette painted neon orange.
Regards
Arran
Well then I guess I didn't do mine right.
Don't listen to me.
oh well